Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtborrow - Rb25 Standard Actuator And Air Box


Recommended Posts

Got reported to the EPA today, and though its not for a little while yet (letter is gonna be mailed to me) just gonna chase up some parts that i need

item 1 - stock RB25 actuator in good working condition. i'll need to borrow this for a few days and will return it asap after my inspection. dont want to buy as im just gonna revert to the cars current state post inspection.

item 2 - airbox w filter. dont need the snorkle as my airbox was lent to a user on here who then went awol with it. prob wont need this but safe to have anyway

please post in here, pm or sms on 0405736235

cheers

Basti

did they actually ping you for different actuator fitted or do you want to run std boost ?

if you have non-std actuatotor you could simply wire the gate open to make it run basically no boost

did they actually ping you for different actuator fitted or do you want to run std boost ?

if you have non-std actuatotor you could simply wire the gate open to make it run basically no boost

will epa pick up on that? Pettett picked up on the rerouted boost lines. just rekon its safer looking stock. will be swapped back out when i clear.

charles, maroondah hwy ringwood.

thanks for the replies guys. i'll get in touch when i get the letter

Niroj. Got actuator but it's still on the stock turbo. We can remove it for you if you like

PM me if you're selling stock turbo, interested in grabbing it off you.

yeah the vac lines is a dead obvious give away specially if they are brigth coloured vac lines etc

if its a std looking actuatgor and its not shiny and clean then you should be fine

ie if it looks clean it means youve been fiddling with it, cover it in oil and make it look dirty

i dont think they would be pick differetn actuator spring rate, how woudl they check it ? other than visual

yeah the vac lines is a dead obvious give away specially if they are brigth coloured vac lines etc

if its a std looking actuatgor and its not shiny and clean then you should be fine

ie if it looks clean it means youve been fiddling with it, cover it in oil and make it look dirty

i dont think they would be pick differetn actuator spring rate, how woudl they check it ? other than visual

the boost lines are the stock looking black rubber. easier to just go std for now

the nipple on rb20 actuator (i assume that's what you have Niroj) is in a different spot to rb25 one..

you'd be STIFF if you got done for that

hmm didnt know that

Sorry grant. I keep my stock parts in case of EPA. Don't like hunting stuff everytime I get done haha

Fair enough, worth asking anyway.

Lol harsh. I've had about 4-5 epas and about the same number of defects

GEEZZ!!! crazy boy...now for your sake i hope you dont get any troubles...but pretty sure looking at your car cops are forced to pull you over :) coz its so hot :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...