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Im going to atempt to change my oils and im wondering how you do it, i know the gearbox has a drain plug which has a square type socket in it but thats all i know. where is the filler plug?

Where are the drain plugs and filler plugs in the front and rear diffs?

and the same for the transfer case?

How much do you put in it?

What oils do u use for them all?

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I was going to say look in the DIY section in the stickie at the top of the page but there's probably more info in the Stagea Parts listing. Then have a look under the car and you should be able to find most of the plugs. Then ask if you get stuck! BTW I have gone off Castrol Edge and am now using Motul 300v although everyone has their favourites.

Im going to atempt to change my oils and im wondering how you do it, i know the gearbox has a drain plug which has a square type socket in it but thats all i know. where is the filler plug?

Where are the drain plugs and filler plugs in the front and rear diffs?

and the same for the transfer case?

How much do you put in it?

What oils do u use for them all?

just take it to a mechanic.

im a mechanic and ive seen too many things go wrong from people doing things in their driveways that they know nothing about.

just take it to a mechanic.

im a mechanic and ive seen too many things go wrong from people doing things in their driveways that they know nothing about.

Its not rocket science, im sure i can figure it out and do a better job of it than most mechanics. ive been screwed around by so many.

If its out of my league i wont touch it, im not that stupid. Its only changing oil

Edited by sturb25

obviously as you said the g/box has the drain plug on it. the filling point is in the engine bay near the firewall, its got about a metre long dipstick in a tube ....

the engine is easy ..... plug is underneath ..... dipstick on the drivers side ..... filling point is on the cam cover on the passengers side ....

diffs ..... i would leave them for a mechanic as you have to take the cover off and clean/ re-fill and replace the cover gasket ....

hope i help a bit ...

obviously as you said the g/box has the drain plug on it. the filling point is in the engine bay near the firewall, its got about a metre long dipstick in a tube ....

the engine is easy ..... plug is underneath ..... dipstick on the drivers side ..... filling point is on the cam cover on the passengers side ....

diffs ..... i would leave them for a mechanic as you have to take the cover off and clean/ re-fill and replace the cover gasket ....

hope i help a bit ...

Thanks

My car is a manual so it doesnt have a dipstick that goes to the gearbox.

Yeah i know how to do a engine oil change ive been doing mine for about 15years, thats not the issue.

If thats the case with the diffs. Im sure that i can clean and replace cover gaskets. I have built 4 engines from complete pull downs and never had any problems.

I pretty much now what to do but im just confirming my thoughts, its better to get a few opinions.

Thanks

Stu

You could refill the gearbox by removing the shifter..........

but there should be another hole with a 1/2" drive socket higher up. thats the fill point and the level you should fill it to.

you might need to pump the oil in there with a bottle and a long tube. do it a bit at a time.

Best thing I found for doing the Manual box is to feed a length of garden hose down into the filler plug from the engine bay and have a funnel up top to pour into. Best if you have 2 people for it so one can be under the car to let you know when it is full and to make sure the hose doesn't come out. Tried a hand pump for the oil but found the hose way easier. Bit cramped near the filler point so bit of messing about.

Yeah im keen for some info on changing the diff oil as well.

Need a gasket or some sealant ?

Im not sure if it has an LSD, probably need to work that out first, so I know what diff oil to get?

Where are the drain plugs and filler plugs in the front and rear diffs?

and the same for the transfer case?

How much do you put in it?

What oils do u use for them all?

Hi Stu,

Deff worth doing it your self to avoid some ham-fisted incompetent mechanic doing a sub par job on your car. Your right it happens to much and if they do do a descent mechanical job, theyv'e probably left you with a few signs that they have been there in regards to your body work ect...

Drain and filler plugs for the diffs- Drains are on the bottom and stand out like dogs balls, as for the filler im pretty sure they are on the drivers sid about half way up each diff.

Transfer case - one is on the side and the other is on the back part of it as you look at it from the rear of the car. If i were you stu i'd drain the oil out of the trasfer case, then remove the pressure line coming from the pump that goes onto the back of the box, this will drain the boot compartment cansiter and give you the chance to change/flush all the fluid in the system. Once its drained connect up the line and remeber to fill the attessa reservoir in the boot. Also you will have to bleed the attessa system if you do this method. With the cars ass in the air, start car, crack nipple on trasfer case untill no bubbles just straight fluid comes out, then lock it off, move to back diff and somehow get your spanner on the nipple above the rear diff and do the same. Drop car down and check level in rear canister while the car is running.

Quantities wise I think the diffs took about 1.5L in each and transfer roughly 2.5L. You just fill it up till a bit spills out the filler plug and its sweet.

Diff Oil- Castrol SAF-XA 75W140

Transfer case- Castrol Transmax Z

Crack the filler bolts before the drain bolts to ensure you can fill them back up again :-)

im a mechanic and ive seen too many things go wrong from people doing things in their driveways that they know nothing about.

Good advice dude, dont share any of your knowledge or anything...

diffs ..... i would leave them for a mechanic as you have to take the cover off and clean/ re-fill and replace the cover gasket ....

Not necessary for a oil change, no covers need to be removed and no gaskets need to be changed.

You could refill the gearbox by removing the shifter..........

If you want to ruin the transfer case and then pay a hefty bill for attessa repairs yes you could, if you look at a GTR box you can see the shifter assembly is above the transfer case section of the box, pour oil into here and its going into the transfer case not the gear box....

great info there, kidafa.

i have got a some 300V chrono waiting to go in, and i think now i'll do all the other fluids at the same time. i get huge satisfaction out of knowing my car has the best protection, and even more so knowing that i've done it myself and know 100% that it a) actually HAS been done and b) done right.

and really, any car enthusiast should be comfortable doing fluid changes, or at least prepared to have a go - i don't think that is a job for a mechanic unless you are truly too busy, or have no tools or suitable space to have a crack yourself.

also, if anyone wants nissan genuine filters you can get them from justjap for around the same price as you'll pay for a Ryco through a retailer. www.justjap.com

sticky this into the DIY section or add to the existing thread??

Yeah there are some good honest mechanics out there and some dodgie buggers.

I agree it's nice knowing what actual fluids and parts are going into your car.

I like doing as many things as possible for my cars.

This threads tells you how to change your steering fluid as well if its looking a bit brown:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...id-t284873.html

Hi Stu,

Deff worth doing it your self to avoid some ham-fisted incompetent mechanic doing a sub par job on your car. Your right it happens to much and if they do do a descent mechanical job, theyv'e probably left you with a few signs that they have been there in regards to your body work ect...

Drain and filler plugs for the diffs- Drains are on the bottom and stand out like dogs balls, as for the filler im pretty sure they are on the drivers sid about half way up each diff.

Transfer case - one is on the side and the other is on the back part of it as you look at it from the rear of the car. If i were you stu i'd drain the oil out of the trasfer case, then remove the pressure line coming from the pump that goes onto the back of the box, this will drain the boot compartment cansiter and give you the chance to change/flush all the fluid in the system. Once its drained connect up the line and remeber to fill the attessa reservoir in the boot. Also you will have to bleed the attessa system if you do this method. With the cars ass in the air, start car, crack nipple on trasfer case untill no bubbles just straight fluid comes out, then lock it off, move to back diff and somehow get your spanner on the nipple above the rear diff and do the same. Drop car down and check level in rear canister while the car is running.

Quantities wise I think the diffs took about 1.5L in each and transfer roughly 2.5L. You just fill it up till a bit spills out the filler plug and its sweet.

Diff Oil- Castrol SAF-XA 75W140

Transfer case- Castrol Transmax Z

Crack the filler bolts before the drain bolts to ensure you can fill them back up again :-)

Good advice dude, dont share any of your knowledge or anything...

Not necessary for a oil change, no covers need to be removed and no gaskets need to be changed.

If you want to ruin the transfer case and then pay a hefty bill for attessa repairs yes you could, if you look at a GTR box you can see the shifter assembly is above the transfer case section of the box, pour oil into here and its going into the transfer case not the gear box....

Thank you very much mate, i do aprecitate it at least someone knows what they are talking about and doesnt mind helping out. All seems a piece of cake.

Only one thing, what oil should i run in the gearbox?

Thanks again

Stu

Thank you very much mate, i do aprecitate it at least someone knows what they are talking about and doesnt mind helping out. All seems a piece of cake.

Only one thing, what oil should i run in the gearbox?

Thanks again

Stu

Cheers mate :-)

As for G-box oil I would say it depends on the condition of your gear box. If its 100% healthy no abnormal sounds or anything I'd run a fully synthetic from say Penrite or something like that. But if its got a crunch/developing one perhaps try the Red Line shock-proof in the lightweight viscosity, to help the syncros have a better chance of spinning the gears up to speed.

Stu, the diff oil I suggested is fine.

Mines been in over 40,000k with no issues.

It's even recommended by sydneykid, so don't be scared of this "mechanics" helpful advice.

Id love to find out what oil my old mechanic used, its been in there for 90,000km. I know its well past its change over date but it hasnt given me any troubles.

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