Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have. It is made of brick and is commonly termed a garage :P

It is definitely possible to get over 700kms before the light comes on whilst cruising at 100-120kph.

It has been done a number of times and with a favourable road/breeze, 800kms when the light comes on is possible (rare though)

I have a garage to. just my dad and sister seem to beat me to it.

i dont think ill ever get more than 400Ks out of mine. maybe when i lean it out. doubt it though

I have a garage to. just my dad and sister seem to beat me to it.

i dont think ill ever get more than 400Ks out of mine. maybe when i lean it out. doubt it though

I generally get about 400km out of mine also, but on my way to the snow I did 659km from 70.8L of fuel, ie 10.7L/100km.. I think we've got an 80L tank, so theoretically could've squeezed more out but the light was well and truely on at that point. What fuel consumption does your Informeter give you?

I get between 450-550 city and I have got 800 out of one tank kept it at 100-110kph but.. At 120-130kph its about 650..

Installed the new head unit and sub into the cargo storage.. Much better sound now.. Whilst doing that realized the muppets that drilled the holes for the child restraints didnt silicone it properly now I have leaks in the rear area.. So anoying..

I generally get about 400km out of mine also, but on my way to the snow I did 659km from 70.8L of fuel, ie 10.7L/100km.. I think we've got an 80L tank, so theoretically could've squeezed more out but the light was well and truely on at that point. What fuel consumption does your Informeter give you?

to be honest havent set up the fuel consumption on it. the car sayse something stupid like 6.7/100km which i would like if it were true lol

to be honest havent set up the fuel consumption on it. the car sayse something stupid like 6.7/100km which i would like if it were true lol

Unless you've had the english conversion done, the readout is actually in Km/L, not Litres per Hundred Kays, so yours is probably about right.

are you talking about after markets or just new globes? i'm currently using 8000k's although I prefer 10,000k.

as long as you have your lights angled down it shouldn't be a problem!...I drive at night mainly and I never get flashed or pulled over.

Be careful when choosing the Kelvin rating of your new lights - as outlined here, Kelvin rating has little to do with the actual light output. Kelvin is a measure of colour TEMPERATURE, so basically how "warm" or "cool" the produced light is, not how bright.

Unless you've had the english conversion done, the readout is actually in Km/L, not Litres per Hundred Kays, so yours is probably about right.

that would mean i should get 537kms out of the tank though. I need to lean it out i think.

Be careful when choosing the Kelvin rating of your new lights - as outlined here, Kelvin rating has little to do with the actual light output. Kelvin is a measure of colour TEMPERATURE, so basically how "warm" or "cool" the produced light is, not how bright.

^^+10003

couldnt agree more. i remember having an argument with someone at Autobarn trying to sell me these. I had to dumb it down so much by saying lets refer Kalvin as Kandles(candles) having 8000kandles is going to be warmer that 6000kandles. still didnt believe me. i showed him it in the book. why do they hire these people

that would mean i should get 537kms out of the tank though. I need to lean it out i think.

You would if you drove it dry mate.

You should get another 120kms for so once the fuel light comes on (maybe more), but I remember you saying that you only run it down to the 1/4 tank mark?

Bought 3rd set of new fronts seats

have to decide which ones to put in

Evo 8 Recaro's

Brand new bright red Millinium Recaros's

Black Drift R34 GTR copies.

Collecting new engine parts for forged Rb26 swap

Brand new R32 GTR engine wiring harness, Nismo conrods, ACL multi layer head gasket, ARP head bolts, Genuine gasket kit, s/hand spitfires, stock ecu for Nistune. N1 oil pump (might change to Nitto)

next pistons, bearings, maybe new crank, and head parts like valve guides, springs etc and a pair of -5's = 400rwkw and hopefully a high 11 sec :D .

I had to dumb it down so much by saying lets refer Kalvin as Kandles(candles) having 8000kandles is going to be warmer that 6000kandles. still didnt believe me. i showed him it in the book. why do they hire these people

unsure.gif

What youve said confused the shit out of me mate :P Heres how I understand it.. how far off base am I? :D

Kelvin is a measure of heat - think of it as degrees celcius if it helps. Now, when you heat up a piece of metal, it first goes red hot - if you can keep heating it then it starts going yellow, heat it even more then white hot.

Candles is a measure of how BRIGHT something appears, in a darkened room, you light 1 candle - and you'll illuminate the room to a certain extent. Light a 2nd candle, and the amount of illumination increases.

So, the rating of 8000kelvin for a set of headlights is the equivilent to how HOT it is getting which determines the colour (5000, yellow hot, 8000 white hot)

A rating of 1000 Candles for a light is a comparison to how many candles would need to be light the same amount of area.

SO, you can have 5000kelvin 1000 Candle and youd have a yellow light.. or you can have 8000kelvin 1000 candle and itd be quite a white light. Both would illuminate the same amount.

yeh thats a better way of putting it! but this guy is stupid and cant weld. he is an old friend who i think should never have been given a car. the only way he'd understand is if i burnt him with a candle lol

You would if you drove it dry mate.

You should get another 120kms for so once the fuel light comes on (maybe more), but I remember you saying that you only run it down to the 1/4 tank mark?

Yeh your right. i only run it to 1/4 at max. but that when i only get about 250 to 280. 300 hundred is about half way through that last quarter

i bought another M35

Iaiaaaiaiaiain, I bet its got awsome economy.

Ohhh i forgot to mention something.

Bought me an eManage Ultimate today with a universal harness for $676.00 Aud directly from Japan with free shipping.

oh.. its BRAND SPANKING NEW :D

Edited by AaronNM35

Funny noises coming from the front of my car, so I think some coil overs might be needed (either that or some ball joints/bushes are STUFFED) :rolleyes:

Sounds like a piece of gravel is in one of the shocks rubbing up and down as I go over bumps and corners.

Anyone got some coil overs they want to sell :D

I think i'm on my way to around 500K's to 70L (14L/100K)!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...