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Not one circuit GTR down here has one.

If everything is done right with block restrictions and so forth, then you don't need it.

If you did a list of people with them, and then without... it would be extremely one sided.

Yeah, but we drive our track cars are driven harder... Cause the real men are in NSW... :D

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people run n1 pumps without issue too :D

that they do, and some people run unopened engines making good power for a long time without any trouble.

but seeing as this is about oil in the head i dont see the relevance...

Oil drain/vent is a bandaid for a bigger issue, therefore not fixing the problem or the be all, end all.

there are other ways to equalize the pressure venting the sump is one way, provided the correct restrictions and gallery mods were done.

like its been outlined in the already linked oil control thread

Edited by jangles
this can't be a spun bearing. haunted hills is in Vic.

Rather than start a flaming war with the southerners why don't we just send you back in time and relocate you to Victoria just before you bought your first RB26. :D

That should square the books then we can get talking about important things like which "atmo bov" or "I did a search and couldn't find anything...honest"

Well if you don't ask, you'll never know. I'd be talking to engine builders, and reading books, as forums are not always the answer...

Here's some oil management I used, and I've never blown up an RB in 6 years and 140,000kms of 400-480WHP, drags, track days x2 etc.

Overfill sump by over 1 litre every oil change.

Stock sump.

Tomei oil restrictor

catch can

r33 crank, forged pistons, rods, acl bearings etc

R33 GTR oil pump, with oil px reg shim

oil returns in head enlarged, you are meant to do the block too. (did a build thread years back)

oil cooler

proper oil pressure and temp gauges (stock oil px gauge does not react fast enough)

No rev limiter banging

Seems that continuous high rpm and high boost at tracks days is the hardest on RB's regarding oil staying in the head, and then collecting in catchcan.

I did build an engine over 2 years ago on my 32 that had a less than acceptable top compression ring gap to reduce blowby (gap too big), so part of that was my fault.

obviously you dont know alot about engines, you all seem to to be doing it the cheap and dodgey way by over filling it by a litre. For it to be done right why, dont you all put bigger sumps on or even better a dry sump

Edited by ripps
obviously you dont know alot about engines, you all seem to to be doing it the cheap and dodgey way. For it to be done right why, dont you all put bigger sumps on or even better a dry sump

LOL.

We dont know anything??? but you do huh??...its that why you started a single sentence paragraph on what would happen if the bottom end ran dry of oil......and how to fix it....well you have been told by at least 10 people.

alright ill ask the question that no one has actually answered yet then. what sort of bigger sumps do you recommend? and where you have got them from? also what sort of price?

Edited:

Here is a link to hioctanes sump.

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=1192

then the rest of the oil control stuff

http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?ma...amp;cPath=67_74

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