Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah and that was in regards to piston slap, you seem to think tomei pistons are way out of everyones budget, i picked up a set for a few hundred dollars more, so why not go the extra? also read up on other forums other then skyaus (in relation to piston slap) and see what you find, it may shock you.....

Metallurgical expasion rate can be taken into consideration when developing engine clearances, this means that the overriding key area of interest in the reduction of "slap" will be the tolerances of the engine.

People on GTROC seem to have this almost religious belief in the abilities of a handful of people which is fair considering some of the posters on that website are very very talented people.

However on average I have never heard such a large torrent of absolute crap from a large number of people who really don't know what they are talking about.

Thanks for that.

Got any facts to post up, maybe some of the data you've correlated from "reading thousands of forum posts" ?

It was actually thousands of forum threads... SOOO much more impressive :)

EDIT: Also found this rather amusing after all his preaching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...ds-t326991.html

Edited by SimonR32
It was actually thousands of forum threads... SOOO much more impressive :)

EDIT: Also found this rather amusing after all his preaching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...ds-t326991.html

Thanks for the Tip Simon :) and yes, Much much more impressive.

And that is quite an amusing find, lets end this now in the obvious absence of facts there really isn't anything more helpful to say.

PS sweet 32 Mate.

Cheers,

Mitch.

It was actually thousands of forum threads... SOOO much more impressive :)

EDIT: Also found this rather amusing after all his preaching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...ds-t326991.html

look at the date and see when that was actually posted! :)

It was actually thousands of forum threads... SOOO much more impressive :)

EDIT: Also found this rather amusing after all his preaching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...ds-t326991.html

must have been a lot of reading done between Jun and Oct wouldn't you say? :)

4 months, and lets just say 1,000 threads - average what - 20 posts to be fair about all the drama's of these piston slapping motors...

160 posts/day read... LOL...

i do understand a 2nd hand motor would be alot easier, cheaper and quicker than a build but although the standard motor is capable of handling over my target power level happily i'd still prefer to do a build and make it just that little bit stronger for my piece of mind and just the general satisfaction i would have from building it. even if it does blow up at least i gave it a crack which im sure is more than some of the more cashed up members on here could say for themselves.. fair enough if you can afford to pay for your engine to be built by a workshop but from my p.o.v i'd much rather give it a go and learn from my possible mistakes, the build is going to be almost standard with a few upgraded bits here and there, call me stupid and say im spending money on unnessisary items but for me i really dont see the point in a build or even a secondhand motor if it was just going to be completely standard again. i say if you going to take the time to build a motor or swap one out why not make the most of it and improve it atleast a little at the very least?

what im thinking now:

adjustible cam gears

gates timing belt

poncams

standard rods (recon'd)

standard pistons (new with new rings)

N1 oil pump (or standard?, probally no need for n1 at 300>350hp)

N1 water pump (same as above, only effective at higher rpm anyway, opinons?)

power fc

s15 470cc injectors

recon'd head

ballanced bottom end

ARP head studs

ARP main studs

ACL Main bearings

ACL Rod bearings

Lightened flywheel

R34 turbo (op-6 rear housing, possible highflow)

Edited by XxNinjaxX
must have been a lot of reading done between Jun and Oct wouldn't you say? :unsure:

4 months, and lets just say 1,000 threads - average what - 20 posts to be fair about all the drama's of these piston slapping motors...

160 posts/day read... LOL...

oh cmon now, bringing the negativity again. It's about time we all got back on topic now dont you think. If you have anyting more to say to me. please contact my privatly. Going on about how many threads i can read in a 4 month peroid, hahahha thats just f**king ridiculous yet typicall for some!

Tomei's are made in there own warehouse as with all there items.

simply no. Just like other jap manufacturers i would bet they are made to order (to their spec) by other large companies... like carrillo (for the rods) and cosworth etc for pistons. I have Multiple jap branded items here in my hand now like rods and they are Jap branded yet have carrillo markings and the pistons are also in the same boat, my rb26 that is for sale has Greddy pistons in it and i know for a fact they dont make them in house. These itmes are exclusive to the jap brands and dont show up in the carrillo or cosworth catalogues.

Another example is I have two sets of JUN pistons here for RB26 and there is $500 between the two of them, the premium one is a Cosworth manufactured item (different crown design again to the greddy) the other is a Wossner more budget orientated design.... poor customer got shafted by an online seller who sent the cheaper series instead of the ordered high spec ones :unsure:

Mines are using Mahle as their supplier for R35 GTR pistons.

Find a successful engine builder in your area, tell them your requirements and let them put together a proven package.

If the engine builder hasnt used your combo before he wont have had the experience on how to set them up to be the most reliable.

Building a reliable engine with moderately low power is not about using the best of every part but getting a proven package that works well together. The best example of this is a factory engine.

sounds to me like you just want to be able to tell people you have a forged engine and that you built it yourself.....

as far as im concerned a standard rb25 thats been serviced and tuned well should hit 200000ks no worries, i'd also trust an unopened used engine more than a first time forged item some guy built in his shed.

your basically spending 5k+ for bragging rights?

i do understand a 2nd hand motor would be alot easier, cheaper and quicker than a build but although the standard motor is capable of handling over my target power level happily i'd still prefer to do a build and make it just that little bit stronger for my piece of mind and just the general satisfaction i would have from building it. even if it does blow up at least i gave it a crack which im sure is more than some of the more cashed up members on here could say for themselves.. fair enough if you can afford to pay for your engine to be built by a workshop but from my p.o.v i'd much rather give it a go and learn from my possible mistakes, the build is going to be almost standard with a few upgraded bits here and there, call me stupid and say im spending money on unnessisary items but for me i really dont see the point in a build or even a secondhand motor if it was just going to be completely standard again. i say if you going to take the time to build a motor or swap one out why not make the most of it and improve it atleast a little at the very least?

what im thinking now:

adjustible cam gears

gates timing belt

poncams

standard rods (recon'd)

standard pistons (new with new rings)could get forged for similar price??

N1 oil pump (or standard?, probally no need for n1 at 300>350hp)

N1 water pump (same as above, only effective at higher rpm anyway, opinons?)

power fc

s15 470cc injectors

recon'd head

ballanced bottom end

ARP head studs

ARP main studs

ACL Main bearings

ACL Rod bearings

Lightened flywheel

R34 turbo (op-6 rear housing, possible highflow)highflow can be up to 300kw

IF you want to build it yourself for the experience, just get new rings and bearings, gaskets belt etc.

unless youre going to search for some sort of power above what stock can produce for years then dont waste your money!

stock bolts have been proven for FAR greater power levels many times.

Once completed put it in your car, then you can Rebuild the current one with better parts seeing as you'll now you have more experience and know how because youve already built one...

i do understand a 2nd hand motor would be alot easier, cheaper and quicker than a build but although the standard motor is capable of handling over my target power level happily i'd still prefer to do a build and make it just that little bit stronger for my piece of mind and just the general satisfaction i would have from building it. even if it does blow up at least i gave it a crack which im sure is more than some of the more cashed up members on here could say for themselves.. fair enough if you can afford to pay for your engine to be built by a workshop but from my p.o.v i'd much rather give it a go and learn from my possible mistakes, the build is going to be almost standard with a few upgraded bits here and there, call me stupid and say im spending money on unnessisary items but for me i really dont see the point in a build or even a secondhand motor if it was just going to be completely standard again. i say if you going to take the time to build a motor or swap one out why not make the most of it and improve it atleast a little at the very least?

I get exactly where you are coming from but you are pretty much guaranteed to fail which would be a pitty considering you would just be throwing your money down the drain.

I would highly recommend just getting a replacement donk, Nissan have built 1000's of these motors and I could pretty much put my hand on my heart and say they are the best at doing it. They may not be as strong as a forged motor but with the turbo and power you are after they will take any punishment you can throw at them! Building a motor yourself no matter what parts you use won't be a improvement it WILL be a step backwards.

I'm in Perth as well and have access to a very cheap NEO motor with low kms and not abused that would be perfect for what you need.

PM me if you are interested.

Cheers

Simon

I think they are exchange or sent your motor and they will rebuild it.

I mean pure crat motor, ie pay on Monday and a big box of engine turns up later in the week.

yeah, can do them outright. but i see where youre coming from!!

like going through a catalogue and picking that ONE!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...