Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You want an inside one or an engine bay one? I'm going to take a guess that you want an interior one, in which case my comments are going to be pointless :D

I'm using a Turbosmart under bonnet one which is liquid filled. Is a very good price, easily readable and the liquid filling stops the needle from vibrating around giving bad readings. Very happy with it.

1607.jpg

Reason I have mine is to check the max fuel pressure for choosing nitrous jetting.

Edited by PM-R33

yep, I use a Defi BF fuel pressure gauge. very good. easy to install, easy to use, easy to read and has one awesome feature I've not seen on any other brand. if you also have the boost pressure gauge (and who hasn't) it can display what they call 'differential pressure' so what it does is remove vacuum or boost from fuel pressure so you can see the actual pressure. this makes it very easy to spot if something's going wrong. see you have the regs base pressure (approx 3 bar in a skyline standard) and then vacuum reduces it, and boost increases it. so when driving it will be fluctuating all over the place. switch the gauge on to diff mode and it should just sit on 3 bar moving only slightly. because it's showing you the difference between total fuel pressure and boost pressure. very handy. and makes it very easy to diagnose any fuel supply problems etc.

I am using one like PM-R33 as i had the same concern as you N1GTR about one of my two bosch 044s failing.

I got mine for about $35 from hi-octane and its bolted on to my SARD fuel pressure regulator.

Though i feel i need one in cabin like Baron as it does sound a lot safer as you'll be able to see it whilst driving. Though it depends if you are willing to spend $300 or so on the defi gauge + another $150 or so on the control unit ;)

I guess you can afford to spend $450 or so after spending that much money and time on your 30/26 right? :bunny:

Thanks guys!

Yes I'm after an inside one, the ones in the engine bay are nice but they're useless when the car is moving. The major concern I've got is that I go for a drive and one fuel pump dies, then stand on the loud pedal and you can all guess the rest :(

Baron I've got the defi triple cluster that replaces the stock dials in the centre, I don't have a seperate boost gauge cause the ebc does that and it's not something I'd look at anyway (there's enough to worry about when you're up it). Does the gauge you've got have a warning or memory recall for a minimum value? The defi gauge in my supra is a bf boost gauge and it has peak recall etc of course with the control box2, but peak isn't a value I want for fuel pressure, if it has a warn at a user defined preset minimum level that would be perfect!

Destrukshn do you have a pic of your one please? I know what you mean, the spending never ends!

Thanks guys!

Yes I'm after an inside one, the ones in the engine bay are nice but they're useless when the car is moving. The major concern I've got is that I go for a drive and one fuel pump dies, then stand on the loud pedal and you can all guess the rest :blush:

Baron I've got the defi triple cluster that replaces the stock dials in the centre, I don't have a seperate boost gauge cause the ebc does that and it's not something I'd look at anyway (there's enough to worry about when you're up it). Does the gauge you've got have a warning or memory recall for a minimum value? The defi gauge in my supra is a bf boost gauge and it has peak recall etc of course with the control box2, but peak isn't a value I want for fuel pressure, if it has a warn at a user defined preset minimum level that would be perfect!

Destrukshn do you have a pic of your one please? I know what you mean, the spending never ends!

yeah just like the fuel pressure gauge the defi fuel pressure gauge has a min warning, and also peak hold and of course record functionality. I would seriously chuck the current boost gauge and controller from the supra into the GTR and add the fuel press gauge to go with it. being able to have it display the differential pressure is a massive advantage over other gauges and really useful. makes it so easy to diagnose reg problems, pump problems etc. and of course you don't have to watch it all the time. can just do a quick run on record then play it back later, or just watch it a bit, set the warning level and then leave it alone. :down:

guise, if you want an in cabbin one what other parts do you need? as above im stressed that my fuel pump is going to die, how do i go about setting up one for the interior? and also some rough prices to on something cheap?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...