Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just saw a post on Facebook of another 25T with one of these going on a 25/30 backed up against an auto - should be a couple running around at least in the near future.

Any progress with yours?

  • Like 1

Keep me posted with how that one goes, mate.

Mine is about a week or two away... manifold flange change is done (T3 to v-band) off for ceramic coating tomorrow or Mon.
IMG_7671.JPG

Going to switch from a Sard to Turbosmart FPR1200, may need bigger injectors too. CDI is another 'possible' requirement.

Will also install and configure the Racelogic TC system.

IMG_7630.JPGIMG_7625.JPGIMG_7631.JPG

Previous turbo set-up (up until earlier today) and a few random shots. IMG_7638.JPGIMG_7622.JPG

I think I may have developed a thing for titanium fasteners. $400 and counting so far, fancy blue M10x1.25 strut tops nuts included.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Nice power!!! Definitely in the range we had talked about earlier.

 

Why no rpm graph?  Hard to tell what spool would be like but the graph makes it look like it could be later than I expected.   Any reason it was stopped at 26psi?

 

 

I got gtx3582 gen2 0.83 a/r ts t3 in r34gtr dyno on 4th gear.

Also plumb back 3.5 inch exhaust.

made 650awhp(480kw) @28psi. 

Response not that good on the graph but I still have 3500rpm power band, and tuner did not touch the cam gear yet. hope I can get better response after adjust the cam gear.

I feel not laggy on road.  But definitely  laggy than my old gtx3576.

With 1.01 a/r rear housing and more boost it should be over 750hp on all 4.

IMG_2128.thumb.JPG.cb8e698b91f95e282cac2c2ab7dd43f5.JPG

  • Like 1
12 hours ago, Lithium said:

Nice power!!! Definitely in the range we had talked about earlier.

 

Why no rpm graph?  Hard to tell what spool would be like but the graph makes it look like it could be later than I expected.   Any reason it was stopped at 26psi?

 

 

Cheers mate. Yeah made the power I was hoping it would. 

That was my stuff up, I forgot to ask Shaun to switch it across to RPM.  We are yet to switch to the 4-port Mac valve so hopefully further improvement in response to come. 

Shaun strongly suggested we leave it at 26psi for reliability and longevity. I wasn't going to argue with my engine builder and tuner. The same guy who will look after me if something goes wrong.. provided I follow his advice :14_relaxed:       

  • Like 1

Makes sense, probably could have gone a bit smaller if you weren't after full effort though.

When do you get to drive it?  Did you get any impression from the dyno or real world what the spool is like?

  • Like 1
5 hours ago, whatsisname said:

True, although this way there's potential for gains down the track.

I'm hopeful we can improve response. Yet to drive it as there's still a few things to do.

Hi mate do you know what the size of your turbo's vband inlet size?

13 hours ago, whatsisname said:

True, although this way there's potential for gains down the track.

I'm hopeful we can improve response. Yet to drive it as there's still a few things to do.

Cool, Good luck!  Cheers for updating with results, if it can make 525kw on 26psi or so the hotside isn't too shabby.  Would be very interesting to know what they can do on kill and what the boost threshold is like, if they aren't too much laggier than the 3582 then they would be a really good thing 

  • Like 1
Cool, Good luck!  Cheers for updating with results, if it can make 525kw on 26psi or so the hotside isn't too shabby.  Would be very interesting to know what they can do on kill and what the boost threshold is like, if they aren't too much laggier than the 3582 then they would be a really good thing 

Thanks mate. No problem at all, always happy to share my experiences, good or bad.   I am confident we can improve the boost curve to get it coming on harder and therefore area under the curve.

Some further info from the dyno session on Wednesday evening; Shaun spent the first 10mins adjusting base pressure and checking the fuel mixtures, as we'd switched from a Sard FPR to new TS FPR1200. Once A/FRs were optimised he did a power run. 421kW at 10psi creeping to 19-20psi. After a quick change of wastegate line configuration and boost control adjustments the second run produced 463kW at about 24psi. At about this point I started getting concerned it wasn't going to produce the goods!  

The next run, with boost set at 25psi, resulted in 488.6kW. Shaun could obviously see the early signs of disappointment starting to show on my face and said to me 'don't give up on me yet mate!' accompanied by a grin. The next run, it made 499.2kW. The gains were all coming from adding timing. GTX3584RS was continuing to make gains where the old FP GT3586R had nosed over at 25-26psi and extra boost and timing simply didn't make any extra power.

Run after run it kept climbing, 503.3, 507.7, 513.X, 525.3kW

I am confident it would keep making gains with additional boost provided the engine doesn't hit a restriction somewhere. 560-580kW at 30-32psi would be my guess. 600 is a possibility with a decent head/cams set-up and everything else optimised and set to kill.

Down the track at some stage I will get to find out.  

   

          

       

   

 

 

There are literally no other engine changes from when it had the 3586. Same everything bar a switch from T3 flange to v-band flange on the exhaust manifold - but same manifold. Same dump, same intake etc.

It is as close to a back-to-back as we could get.

 

I'm guessing hotside.

 

 

  • Like 1
That is quite interesting!  What about the spool difference?   Do you know what rpm it's reaching 20psi by?  What was it before?


As soon as I get a chance I'll get Shaun to overlay the two runs. It's laggier, as I expected. Plus it isn't coming on as hard with the current boost control and w/gate set-up.
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...