Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Couldn't find air filters on their site?

found these: http://www.nengun.com/nismo/s-tune-sports-air-filter

Which is the correct part number? And How long do they last?

The K&N ones supposedly last 50k km???

Give them a call, they may have some in stock.

The Amsoil ones are guaranteed to last "100,000 miles or 4 years" - I have to back that as I am still using mine no probs :)

Re: Nismo air filter (from the RHD Japan website)

"The NISMO S-Tune Air Filter is a direct drop in replacement for your OEM unit and has a urethane/foam composition which will allow for the increased performance."

That fart sound from the stock blow off valve is embarassing. Especially if you've got chicks in the car :)

From outside they look at the car and it looks like it's new but little do they know when you boost a bit, it poos in it's pants.

hmm... I don't get any kind of noise from my factory BOV, even at 1.3 bar there are no such noises from the BOV

Turbo noise - but now I notice SOMETIMES (maybe 50%) when I hit boost, I get a "rubbing" noise - imagine driving over the rumble strips on the Hume, now speed it up x2. Sounds just like that...

Can you clarify whether the noise happens when you HIT boost or when you STEP OFF the accelerator whilst boosting?

Edited by iamhe77
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I don't suggest it, mine holds 22 psi just fine. I drove Aarons with an aftermarket bov and wasn't impressed. Sorry Aaron. :)

Thanks Scott :)

lol yeh wouldnt recomend going after market. Regret it, and im lucky to have found a stock one (thats right scott! a stock one)

blocking it makes that "stuuu tuu tuu tu" sound. This will either snap the shaft in your turbo or shatter ceramic fan on the back of it. whichever is weaker, try to force exhaust fumes back into your engine, and do the ripple strip sound which is uncomfortable.

i had an atmo and needed to put the strongest spring i could get. our vacuum rate is much higher in our cars because they are electronically times, as compare to older cars. I did it just for kicks. found me kicking myself having to spend an arm and a leg repairing(hi flowing) a turbo.

because of the above reason, u could imagine why the stock would be the best.

OK - so basically my car's BOV is partially or fully blocked. Which means its stuffed and I need a stock replacement. You can't "clean" them, can you?

If I need a replacement - is it easier to get it from Japan? or order from Nissan Australia?

Something like this would be crap?

http://www.nengun.com/hks/super-sqv-3

Edited by ironpaw
OK - so basically my car's BOV is partially or fully blocked. Which means its stuffed and I need a stock replacement. You can't "clean" them, can you?

If I need a replacement - is it easier to get it from Japan? or order from Nissan Australia?

well i wouldnt suggest pulling them apart.

an idea? what im doing temporarily is using a Turbo Smart plumb back replacement for our car. it comes with a "green"(mid) tension spring. but its not soft enough.

Theyre "blue"(low) tensioned spring is the go. BOV should stay open at idle( which it does now) and should easily blow open when releasing throttle becuase of the softest spring. rated up to 600hp i think as well.. mine is still the green spring, and just BARELY making a beep sound. im not gonna get the blue spring because i found a stock. but I guess it would work. simple bolt on aswell. i think your looking at $200.00 RRP?

like i said ATMO isnt reccomended because of the Vacuum rate. Super sequential Valve by HKS is good but i wouldnt get it for ours, i tried one n my engine kept dying off throttle as the spring isnt strong enough. Probably wont fit under the BOV bracket aswell where as the TurboSmart Kompact fits just as a stck one.

oh n sorry for the long post's, I like to explain things in full

Edited by AaronNM35
well i wouldnt suggest pulling them apart.

an idea? what im doing temporarily is using a Turbo Smart plumb back replacement for our car. it comes with a "green"(mid) tension spring. but its not soft enough.

Theyre "blue"(low) tensioned spring is the go. BOV should stay open at idle( which it does now) and should easily blow open when releasing throttle becuase of the softest spring. rated up to 600hp i think as well.. mine is still the green spring, and just BARELY making a beep sound. im not gonna get the blue spring because i found a stock. but I guess it would work. simple bolt on aswell. i think your looking at $200.00 RRP?

like i said ATMO isnt reccomended because of the Vacuum rate. Super sequential Valve by HKS is good but i wouldnt get it for ours, i tried one n my engine kept dying off throttle as the spring isnt strong enough. Probably wont fit under the BOV bracket aswell where as the TurboSmart Kompact fits just as a stck one.

oh n sorry for the long post's, I like to explain things in full

No problem - I like to get as much info as I can!

So I need to find a "blue" tensioned spring, which I take it is a stock part from Nissan?

I don't need the whole BOV assembly? Just this spring? Or I need this "Turbo Smart PLumb back" thing...? where do I get that?

Sorry for my newbness!!

No problem - I like to get as much info as I can!

So I need to find a "blue" tensioned spring, which I take it is a stock part from Nissan?

I don't need the whole BOV assembly? Just this spring? Or I need this "Turbo Smart PLumb back" thing...? where do I get that?

Sorry for my newbness!!

haha nah its ok. im still newbing it i guess..

you'll have to replace the whole blow off valve. i dont think the stock ones come apart.

before you do replace it though speak to scott because i remember him saying something about a grub screw in the stock one that made it surge.(dont ask me)

but.

http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=46 explains it. scroll down abit till you see the black ones.. its model specific for Nissan, including "stagea - all models" which is bull shit.. lol you will need a blue spring. which is like $15.00

Firstly, take the bov off and inspect it, Im guessing the hose is split or worse, there is some internal damage. There is probably a spare stockie floating about if you need one.

Our bov is special, it bypasses air all the time from a 4mm hole, this should not be blocked. (as I found the hard way) It helps eliminate compressor surge. Better would be to stick a solenoid on the bypass hole to block it at full throttle but as I said, I can hold good boost with it venting anyway.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Jethro, how is it going with the bov problem?

Sorted yet?

Keep me updated mate

I should be getting the turbosmart thing from Aaron later this week...will let you know.

I think I will also start hunting for a used one on IM or from Jesse Streeter. Hey what did you mean when u said the BOV smells like egg? Are you kidding?

You wouldn't think of repairing the factory one? Sometimes all they need is a bit of a clean out. Kero bath and actuate it a couple of times and then you should be right?

The only other thing I can recommend is looking for boost leaks (such as cracked or damaged tubing on the pressure side of the engine.

Regardless, keep us in the loop on how you go.

hey everyone i had a look at it. its definitely not the BOV. its kind of like a quick brdrdurur sound like scraping something rippled with your hand. the BOV is fine. all the pipes are tightened. Driving it kind of feels like when you release the accelerator and the car kind of jerks forward its rubbing something for a split second then calms down. i think it might have something to actually do with handling rather than engine.

definitely not surge. i even tightened all the pipes.. def not leaking, doesn't seem possible to leak only when coming off boost right?

any ideas to help Mr IronPaw out?

Yep gotta thank Aaron for having a look at the issue...he reseated the BOV and tighted all the hoses but the farting noise remains...grrrrrrrrr

Might need to visit you Scotty..,when you guys are done with Craig's car that is :blush:

Hmm I get the noise when I let the accelerator off when I'm at (full?) boost between 3-4.5k. Doesn't happen ALL the time but usually does (70%). Never happens above 5k...

Throttle butterfly ok? sounds like its surging but it wont with the stock bov, mine doesnt unless I block the bleed hole. Perhaps its blocked with gunk?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...