Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok now this thread is well and truly gone off topic.

Me;

HKS GTRS's

OS Giken R3C

Tomei procam 270 10.25

Paul;

HKS GTRS's

NISMO c spec twin

Tomei procam 270 10.25

Every bit of info you want is already on the forum in various threads, start with the dyno result threads in this section which are even stickies up the top.

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 months later...

No way would i ever rely on a single pump for a high hp outfit.

Twin pierbergs for me, they outflow the 044's by a wide margin And at least there is some insurance if one shits itself.

Twice as many things to go wrong with two pumps. Especially two of lesser quality compared to a Weldon; plus you could get the Weldon rebuilt every xxxx kms.

Is the Weldon a brush motor? It will need rebuilding then. Is anyone running the new brushless pumps like the Aeromotive or Fuelab? They look like the go for 400 to 800 lph and less than a third of the Welden price.

post-63525-0-13272600-1300491426_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-12816700-1300491448_thumb.jpg

This is a pointless thread as it depends on what the engines BSCF. Some setups will be lots more efficient at converting the fuel to power. I have made 560rwkw on a dyno dynamics dyno that reads lowish with 6 x 880cc injectors with 2x044 and still had enough margin in the tune for more.

No way would i ever rely on a single pump for a high hp outfit.

Twin pierbergs for me, they outflow the 044's by a wide margin And at least there is some insurance if one shits itself.

I look at this another way. If you have twin pumps, one dies without you warning. Cars seems to run fine but is running lean and pops the motor. Running a bigger single pump and it fails you will know about it as the motor will stop :)

Mind you if we ever get E85 on pump in WA i will probably be forced to run twins, twin in-tank walbros will probably get the tick :)

Is the Weldon a brush motor? It will need rebuilding then. Is anyone running the new brushless pumps like the Aeromotive or Fuelab? They look like the go for 400 to 800 lph and less than a third of the Welden price.

The aeromotive gear is veeery noisy... but most importantly ALOT of guys in the US runn them and have to send them back/ warranty/ replace them on a regular basis.. If your pushing 1000+hp at the crank, then you will be re-building your engine more often than the fuel pump.... hp costs money!

I look at this another way. If you have twin pumps, one dies without you warning. Cars seems to run fine but is running lean and pops the motor. Running a bigger single pump and it fails you will know about it as the motor will stop :)

Mind you if we ever get E85 on pump in WA i will probably be forced to run twins, twin in-tank walbros will probably get the tick :)

This is my argument.... Iv'e seen it first hand. Two bosch pumps on paralell, one shtis itself and the other tries to pick up the slack.... it\s only lean right in the top end (the most important/ dangerous end) of the power curve. Especially if there's no non-return valves fitted!!!

For those using the factory hicas lines for fuel lines, whats the best way to connect to them?

Cut the ends off, slide a flare sleve and nut, flare the end and hey presto you have a female flared coupling.... then use any (correct size) AN or dash male fitting.

Other than they flow nothing at 80psi. Walbro HP's are better but those aeromotive walbro style ones seem the go for intank.

200L per hour at 80psi, so in twins would flow 400L per hour

On a 6 cylinder that's enough to feed 1100cc injectors!

Not exactly nothing...

Edited by SimonR32

They are right at their limit, the graph here shows it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/357584-aeromotive-340lph-and-deatchwerks-300lph-in-tank-fuel-pumps/

Running them past 80psi causes cavitation, the pump cant suck any more fuel up and gas bubbles are produced by the vacuum, this will shag the pump bearings and impellers. Only a problem at over 30psi unless your base pressure has been bumped up...

The large Aeromotive pumps have had bearing problems in the past, they have the same cavitation issues unless you run -8 lines minimum apparently.

post-63525-0-33924700-1300529794_thumb.jpg

Don't look at the Walbro 255l graph, no one should be stupid enough to use one of those!

The GSS-342 pumps are the 255l HP line on the graph you posted and still even flow 175l/hr at 90psi

Plus as you said any skyline running less than 2 bar would be more around 70psi pressure :)

Cut the ends off, slide a flare sleve and nut, flare the end and hey presto you have a female flared coupling.... then use any (correct size) AN or dash male fitting.

Got any pics?

nath, flaring the ends of the hicas lines so you can run a regular AN male fitting is the go, BUT the hicas lines are farking hard to flare. you need a decent flaring tool to do it and probably have to heat the line up a bit too. I'm not sure that I could get a nice flare on them. failing that plenty of people just use the tool that gives you are raised bump around the circumference and then run a push on type fitting with hose clamp. not ideal but they will work if done right. if your flaring for the AN coupling make sure you don't forget to slide the nut on first!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...