Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just curious what your opinion is in regards to the s15 autech vs r34 gt n/a vs na supra i know i posted this question a couple of days ago but forgot to bring the supra into the occasion they are all manual. which responds best to mods, which is better performance wise, which reliablity wise is better?

any help would be appreciated thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344930-na-supra-vs-na-r34-gt-vs-autech/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Depends on alot of things. Condition of the motor/car. Km on the motor. 1 4 cylinder and 2 6 cylinders you can't really compare as they are different power wise, weight, suspension, different manifactors etc. They all can be reliable as each other if they are looked after and keept in check, if it's abused and used don't expect it to perform as you want it to!

On a different note i work at a nissan and mazda dealership and i had a customer come in after his service and say that we have to replace one of his engine mounts, cause the powersteering hose split and made it weak and tore it. I priced him up a new mount and hose and he spat it. Bloody crap blah blah im complaing to nissan and they are going to pay for it. I told him that they wouldn't as his car had been serviced 5 times in the last 140000 km and they would tell him to stick it.

So it depends how you are going to look after the car as to what will be more reliable and better off.

Silvias and skylines are very nice cars and are more modern than supras, interior wise supras look like old rust buckets but are probably faster performance wise.

Instead of askin questions why don't you go test drive the cars rather than asking for people opinions... everyone will say different things about the cars and have very different opinions.

And fyi modifying a non turbo car is a waste of money, just change the exhaust and wait til you can afford a spec R GTT or RZ????

I had a non turbo 20 in my coupe before i have recently changed it to a RB25DET. I suggest if you are planning on keeping the car for a while do the suspension and braking mods. Even though your car might be slower you can still have fun in the hills if you like doing hill runs. Then buy the same car but turbo and change everything over if you can or buy a turbo motor and drop it in. Would be best to buy another car and change what you can as police are starting to crack down on imports latley, well atleast in SA.

I wouldn't imagian so as the japs do some pretty cool things with there "special" models. Like the Z tune GTR's etc. I don't see how a non turbo could have more power than a turbo unless it had some serious work done to it.

I wouldn't imagian so as the japs do some pretty cool things with there "special" models. Like the Z tune GTR's etc. I don't see how a non turbo could have more power than a turbo unless it had some serious work done to it.
Rofl @ NA same power as turbo.

Supra manual would own all those listed. Check out youtube videos.

lol Im not saying it is. I was just asking thats all, a few people claim it is.

Edited by GTR_34

The NA supra will be quicker than the other two, it would also be my pick for reliability and good to mod etc.

The R34 is a touch ordinary while the autech you wouldnt want to blow a motor.

All up NA RWD sucks to begin with, buy a FWD if your on your P's and forget about your dream of becoming a hektic drifter for now.

Just get a cheap NA 32 or S13 while on your P's,

Then wait it out and be patient and with the money you saved originally you could get a nice GTT or Spec R when you go on your opens.

If you have heaps of money then by all means buy one of the one's you mentioned... I'd go the Autech as it has got most of the exhaust side done to it already, plus they are rarer than the others.

The NA supra will be quicker than the other two, it would also be my pick for reliability and good to mod etc.

The R34 is a touch ordinary while the autech you wouldnt want to blow a motor.

All up NA RWD sucks to begin with, buy a FWD if your on your P's and forget about your dream of becoming a hektic drifter for now.

+1. n15 SSS pulsar. all the goodness of sr20de with none of the hassles such as higher insurance of an import or extra police attention.

out of the 3 cars listed though, i'd still have to pick the s15. the supra would be faster but i can't stand the interior, so that immediately puts it at the bottom of the list for me.

+1. n15 SSS pulsar.

Holy f dude, how times have you brought up your "missus's n15 SSS pulsar" ?? I have seen you post that in almost every thread about buying cars or racing cars and in almost every N/A forum thread lol....

let us all bow down to the pulsar :D

Holy f dude, how times have you brought up your "missus's n15 SSS pulsar" ?? I have seen you post that in almost every thread about buying cars or racing cars and in almost every N/A forum thread lol....

let us all bow down to the pulsar :D

this guy raves about the pulsar so much, he has convinced me too test drive one when going to buy a car...

I recently discovered that a stock NA Supra is as fast as a stock CV8 VZ Monaro when accelerating from 0-100*. Which probably isn't saying anything great for the Supra, but rather how slow the Monaro is. Still the fact a P plate legal car can keep up with a V8 Sports coupe with nearly double the displacement is saying something.

Personally though if I had the choice I'd take the Autech S15 any day. It has decent power, a nice interior and the best chassis of all three.

* Yes I'm aware if the sprint continued on to 150kph the Monaro would probably be leagues in front, or if you started modding both the Monaro would pull away significantly.

Sources:

http://www.aaa.asn.au/roadtests/reports/245.pdf

http://www.importforums.com/carsinfo.htm

All up NA RWD sucks to begin with, buy a FWD if your on your P's and forget about your dream of becoming a hektic drifter for now.

I'd disagree with this. I went to the recent Vic drift day in my Supra and did fine, if not better than most of my beginner section turbo partners. I'm no "hektic drifter" but I had more than enough power to get the car sideways and maintain it.

I was also talking to some of the guys there about some chick who normally comes but was currently drifting in Japan in her NA 180SX, and they're slugs! Drift is all about the suspension, clutch and diff. Get those sorted and you can manhandle (or womanhandle in this case) and clutch kick your car into any slide.

Holy f dude, how times have you brought up your "missus's n15 SSS pulsar" ?? I have seen you post that in almost every thread about buying cars or racing cars and in almost every N/A forum thread lol....

let us all bow down to the pulsar ;)

do you need a tissue?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...