Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well looks like both the oil seals have gone in my hks gt-ss, so i will need a rebuild kit.

Is it possible to do the job myself? (is it as simple as swapping out the worn/damage seals?)

Also does anyone have the part number for the oil seals? and do i need anything else?

(the shaft and wheels are fine on both turbos and spin with min shaft play)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345426-rebuild-kit-for-hksgarrett-gt-ss/
Share on other sites

Seals are just stainless steel C clips. When a BB unit blows smoke it means its 90% had a rub on the housings and needs a new core.

i don't know if they were blowing smoke.

the turbo have aheap of oil in the rear housing, and the front wheels looks like its cover in oil dirt. also there seems to be oil in the inlet were it connects the the manifold

how can i check the core? the turbos are a year old. no shaft play (very min, and spin nicely)

edit: bought the turbo 2nd hand and seller say wasn't blowing smoke :S

Edited by Kaido_RR

Check the oil drain to make sure its not blocked, and nothing is leaking oil onto the housing it self.

If it isn't then I would pull it off and have it check out. BB turbos can only be cheaply rebuild before wheel contacts.

Check the oil drain to make sure its not blocked, and nothing is leaking oil onto the housing it self.

If it isn't then I would pull it off and have it check out. BB turbos can only be cheaply rebuild before wheel contacts.

thanks hypergear i will check it out :P

i took them to a garrett dealer here and they said they could be repair, part was $200, labour $300 and rebalance is $75 so works out to be $600 a turbo. If it is a simple swap of a part i rather do it myself than pay the $300labour per turbo.

so i am assuming that they didn't notice any wheel contact.

the oil isn't coming from the pcv/breathers is it? that wouldn't explain the oil in the rear housings though i guess.

Edited by O2 Autosports

I would just pay the money. if it's not done right and they fail the next repair bill will be $1000 per turbo or more (ie bin them and buy a new set). bummer. this is when cheap second hand turbos don't work out cheap.

I would just pay the money. if it's not done right and they fail the next repair bill will be $1000 per turbo or more (ie bin them and buy a new set). bummer. this is when cheap second hand turbos don't work out cheap.

normally i would agree with you beer baron, but the place i took it too the main sales guy was an asshole to me keep telling me my turbos weremt HKS because they were no marking on the housing and that all hks turbo have marking on the housing, at which point i try to explain to him that the new GT-SS and GT-RS do not have HKS marking but he continue to try and tell me otherwise. and talk down to me

This is the 1st time buying turbos from yahoo that i have had an issue :S oh well even if i have to get them rebuild still cost me cheaper than a set of brand new garrett :)

Edited by Kaido_RR

ok well in that case don't take them to that place. send them to GCG in sydney they can do it. the turbos must have been bloody cheap on yahoo which gives you an idea as to why they are stuffed....

ok well in that case don't take them to that place. send them to GCG in sydney they can do it. the turbos must have been bloody cheap on yahoo which gives you an idea as to why they are stuffed....

sold for 60,000yen LOL

Will give GCG a call cheers beer baron

So they sold for about $740, plus getting them here etc and I'll guess import monster commission, let's say $900. Plus the rebuild, which GCG are not going to be cheap, looks like buying dash 9's was the best option.

Surely someone wouldve told you that in your build thread?!

So they sold for about $740, plus getting them here etc and I'll guess import monster commission, let's say $900. Plus the rebuild, which GCG are not going to be cheap, looks like buying dash 9's was the best option.

Surely someone wouldve told you that in your build thread?!

Do you think i would have bought them if i knew they were f**ked?

I have bought many turbos from yahoo and never had an issue, however this time i luck out no big deal, off to get rebuild me thinks :ermm:

Sorry to hear that Kaido

GTR turbos are not something I will ever do second hand!! So painful to change - not like FF and smaller capacity single turbo cars where you can change a turbo over in 30mins.

yeah, didn't like the look of them when i unpacked them so, through i better get them checked out before i spend a whole day putting them on lol

Do you think i would have bought them if i knew they were f**ked?

I have bought many turbos from yahoo and never had an issue, however this time i luck out no big deal, off to get rebuild me thinks ;)

Well of course not, so many gtr owners won't risk it-I guess you're one of them now :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...