Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I am buying a CC (greddy style/D1 etc - the square shaped ones) and I want to mount it like Hamish did

(http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129549-oil-catch-can-mounting-and-roughting/page-2?hl=+oil). I will baffle it by putting stainless steel inside. I have 2 questions

1. does it matter where the stainless steel wool/stuff is placed inside the CC?

2. does the hose from the rocker cover have to go to a specific port/hose barb etc on the CC?

Thanks in advance guys

Amir

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129549-oil-catch-can-mounting-and-roughting/page-2?hl=+oil

  • 11 months later...

I have a catch can setup two cam cover hoses straight to catch can and the return back to original return on the turbo inlet. I have notice that i have have massive amount of condensation in my catch can clear water type that has a strong e85 smell i don't have any trace of water in my oil when checking the dip stick and noting to instigate that i have a gasket bypass issue Is this normal or do i need to get it checked out ?

Normal with e85, warm up tune can make a noticeable difference though. You want to get it in closed loop asap after cold start.

Matt

Hi Matt

Anyone you can recommend that i can go to that can do this tune? not sure if i can do it on mine as i am running a Nistune ECU

Anton

Hi Matt

Anyone you can recommend that i can go to that can do this tune? not sure if i can do it on mine as i am running a Nistune ECU

Anton

You need to post up your location in your profile if you want a tuner that is not thousands of miles away.

  • 3 months later...

Running a single turbo on a rb26dett, anyone ever vented the crankcase through the rear turbo oil return. I was thinking about tying it together with the rocker cover breather hoses and then to a catch can and either going to atmosphere or running a hose back to the intake. to create some vacuum in the crankcase. What do you guys think? I'm just wondering if i'd be sucking oil up instead of just pressure.

  • 6 months later...
  • 7 months later...

Does anyone have any drawings or illustrations of what sort of baffling should be inside the catch can for a track setup?

Is it extensive?

A picture would be nice.

Just now, KiwiRS4T said:

Stangely enough Google has heaps. Just Google "baffled catch can design"

I figured i would ask here, as being a GTR owner, getting real world GTR examples that work would be a start :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...