Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rb30's done use main caps, they have a crank girdle. you can use stock main studs from Nissan without any problems or if you wanted to spend the money you can also buy ones from arp (I dont have the part number handy). I am not aware of anyone oversizing the mains.

I hope you aint building it yourself...

Sorry to point out, but so many of your posts seem condescending and intimidating. Chill brah!

:(

OP, what's the specs of your fuel system and turbo?

atm i have a 2 044's surge sys but isnt installed in car , as i am trying to sell my R32 as i am importing a r34 .

will be id2000's , 2 044's and 3L surge tank +fuel rail + fuel reg

and tossing up between to4z and t51r spl , not really sure yet ;)

T51r for sure! What about a KAI rather than a SPL? The SPL will be heaps laggier and the KAI would be much more efficient (i.e. less boost for the same power, cooler air charge -> more ignition advance = more power. KAI = more midrange, SPL = only top end.

T04zs are an old design and are pretty lazy, there's better options these days.

yer i haven't completely made up my mind, alot of people rag on to4z , But the fastst time attack car in NZ runs a stoker and to4z on gtr ;)

i want around the 500kw mark maybe a bit more on e85 but i dont wanna go jam a gt42 on to do it and turn it in to dyno queen (like few other cars atm pushing big numbers but are just useless)

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT35/GTX3582R_803715_1.htm

T4 .82 housing is probably what you want on an RB30. Would make up to about 700hp before it ran out of flow. Then probably another 100hp ontop of that with E85 and advanced timing.

Correct me if I'm wrong, that's all just guess work!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
' timestamp='1290901236' post='5569232']

rb30's done use main caps, they have a crank girdle. you can use stock main studs from Nissan without any problems or if you wanted to spend the money you can also buy ones from arp (I dont have the part number handy). I am not aware of anyone oversizing the mains.

Arent the ARP studs too long? I'm sure you will need to use washers so they don't bottom out?!?

I believe the issue with the ARP studs had to do with one stud needing a little trimming so it wouldnt interfere with the AWD sump in GTR conversion. But if youve chopped hell out of your sump and added extensions and modified baffles/windage/trapdoors etc (as most tend to do) then the stud problem probably dissapears too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...