Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by | hype^ |

mean lookin things though.. but why would ya bother?

Well that particular one is the 260RS Autech version... ie an R34 GTR with a stagea shell over the top (then modified to have the R34 front end)... now you all know the look you get from the porsch drivers when they get smoked by a GTR... can you imagine the look you would get when you smoked them in a station wagon??? Thats why I would bother!

Stagea's come in various modles, the 260RS Autech version is probably going to cost around $60k to get it here and comply. It IS a GTR with a different shell. It has the 4wd system the same as the one you get in a GTR, it has an RB26DETT engine, same springs, same gearbox... same everything except for the shell... you even get GTR badges!

There are other versions that are cheaper, the have different combinations such as the RB25DE, RB25DET, mixed with four wheel drive and rear wheel drive and if I remember correctly they cost around $25K landed and complyed. All are bassed on the R34 layout and are only importable from '96' on.

I might consider this as my next car. Very unique, Very Fast, and still quite cheep!!!

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I’ve just finished fitting the timing belt on my RB25, following the standard procedure: rotate the crank twice, release the tensioner, then tighten it down. The belt feels tight, and you can see that clearly in the picture below I’ve heard some people say it’s actually better for the belt to be slightly loose rather than too tight, as excessive tension can lead to snapping. So that’s in the back of my mind. What I’m seeing is this:  • At idle, the belt looks fine.  • But when cranking and especially when revving (around 3–4,000 RPM), there’s a momentary flap/flex or flicker in the belt, which I’ve tried to capture in the video. So my question is — based on what you see, is this slight belt movement something you’d consider normal, or am I just being OCD? Could this amount of movement cause sync issues? Or is it just a harmless bit of flex under load?   from what I know belt flap and flex is expected when crank spins up and pull cam with it Would appreciate any thoughts or similar experiences.     IMG_7656.mov IMG_7657.mov
    • I've replaced the front brakes of my NA to 324 brembos and 350z calipers: i'm going for 225/40-18 up front and 245/35-18 in the back. I have Rays 7.5*19 ET35(225/35) in the front with 5mm spacers otherwise the calipers "lock up/ won't rotate". When i use the calculator i come up with 8*18 ET30 for 225/40...... but not sure i get problems with the calipers. Anyone riding around with 18 inch. that can confirm "that it'll fit"? In the back it's 7.5*9 ET30 (245/30) with the 5mm spacers, but there is no problem with the standard small brakes, so i want to take 8.5*18 ET25 (245/35).
    • Lol.. but then.. always come back to a JDM..
    • Glad to hear. If possible, get your tuner to check air's to make sure everything is still where it should be.
    • The problem with FB/Insta/Reddit etc comments relating to cars is simple. You get to ask a question once, and get one round of replies. For things that can actually be answered in a few lines of text, once, it's fine. After 6 hours, your original question is lost to the void. There are no follow ups, additional questions, anything. No project car is ever such a simple list of questions to ask. You need discussion.
×
×
  • Create New...