Jump to content
SAU Community

1997 Ecr33 Hicas Light On After 10km Driving

matticus

By matticus,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

matticus Collaborator

matticus

Posted
Posted

Hey All,

I jsut had an alarm put in my car and now after 10km of driving the HICAS light will come on. It will go away after a key cycle but will come up every 10km.

I have checked with the installer but he doesnt have any idea why and i have check the obvious things: fluid level and fuses both of which were fine.

I have tried to put the HICAS in diagnostic mode but it will not work.

I know HICAS has been discussed to death but it seems no one gives any answers on how to fix the problem. I do have an adverse affects when the light comes on and the steering is as usual.

If anyone can shed some light on what i should do it would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

matticus Collaborator

matticus

Posted
  • Author
Posted
remove hicas? lock bar...

mmm..probably not, i have this (probably unhealthy) obsession with keeping the car as close to origional as possible. :banana:

Would anyone on here know of someone who can diagnose the problem? im in SE suburbs in Melbourne.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

have you got an aftermarket steering wheel? something has gone wrong if it wont go into diagnostic mode. Mine wouldnt do that when I had my boss kit on wrong. but the light only came on after driving over 80kmh for about 20 mins

matticus Collaborator

matticus

Posted
  • Author
Posted
have you got an aftermarket steering wheel? something has gone wrong if it wont go into diagnostic mode. Mine wouldnt do that when I had my boss kit on wrong. but the light only came on after driving over 80kmh for about 20 mins

nup, stock steering wheel.

I'm resetting my ecu today (letting battery run flat) with the wheels stright forward...I really dont know if it will do anything but I guess its worth a try.

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

check the alarm install. if in doubt revert back to stock. my guess is they have tied (or cut) a control line to the hicas box in the rear.

matticus Collaborator

matticus

Posted
  • Author
Posted
HICAS out, you know you want to :)

Haha, you know I love my car too much for that :D.

I've tracked the problem down to the steering angle sensor (SAS).

NOTE: I drive a 1997 S2 ECR33. I do not know if the following is true for other Skylines.

There are two signal wired coming from the sensor, one LH and one RH.

When the wheel is turned the signal will gradually change from ~5.0V to ~0V on one of the signal wires (depending if you are turning left or right).

This change in voltage tells the HICAS controller which way the wheel is turning.

If after a set distance (10km) the HICAS controller does not detect a change in signal (steering input) then it will flag an issue and go into fail-safe mode.

I have read that some people also have troubles getting the HICAS controller into diagnostic mode. If your SAS is not working then the HICAS controller will not detect you turning the wheel and will therefore not go into diag mode.

To diagnose the issue in this case, go to your boot and unplug the wiring harness from the HICAS controller. Using the below picture locate the steering angle sensor and neutral sensor pins.

post-72325-1291243746_thumb.jpg

Grab your multi meter and connect up to one of the SAS pins (21 or 22). Have someone watch the voltage change (or not change) when the steering wheel is turned. If all is working fine then the voltage should go from ~5V when steering is centred to ~0V at full lock LH or RH. Just understand that one will change when turning the wheel right and the other will change when turning left.

If the voltage remains at ~5V then most likely the SAS is stuffed. If the voltage is 0V then you most likely have an open circuit.

I hope this helps someone.

matticus Collaborator

matticus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So it was deffinitly the steering angle sensor. Just has it replaced with a second hand one from the wreckers.

took the car for a nice long drive and nothing came up. Got the HICAS into diagnostic mode and all is ok.

I hope the info on here helps. Ill work on a D.I.Y. replace you steering angle sensor.

  • 2 weeks later...
Samuel Leonard Rising Star

Samuel Leonard

Posted
Posted

So it was deffinitly the steering angle sensor. Just has it replaced with a second hand one from the wreckers.

took the car for a nice long drive and nothing came up. Got the HICAS into diagnostic mode and all is ok.

I hope the info on here helps. Ill work on a D.I.Y. replace you steering angle sensor.

please post this DIY!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Watermouse
      Original window sticker?

      By Watermouse · Posted

      I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...