Hks Turbo Timer = Hicas Problem

[GodziRRa]

Hi!!

I've heard of others having the same situation like mine.

My GT-R32 has been having this flickering Hicas light for quite sometime already. What happens is that it will light up (sometimes w/ matching knocking sound at the Hicas pump area) at high revs and during high electrical load. Checked all the connections, alternator, battery, you name it... all are A ok. Still can't locate the culprit. But I sort of suspect my HKS T.Timer has to do something about it. So last night I disconnect my HKS T.T, and test drive it today and... voila! No more Hicas flickering!

Now for you guys who has this similar problem, how do you deal w/ it? Is it the e-brake or earth connection? I know the BNR32's Hicas system is super sensitive on voltage... What could it be. Hope you can help me guys. Thanks in advance!

[niZmO_Man]

Wow, I have the exact same problem, and a HKS turbo timer! But my HICAS light flicker/pump noise/solenoid noise occurs randomly during idle/driving as well. It's annoying when you turn, the steering wheel "kicks" when this happens.

I'll disconnect the bastard tonight.

[GodziRRa]

Wow, I have the exact same problem, and a HKS turbo timer! But my HICAS light flicker/pump noise/solenoid noise occurs randomly during idle/driving as well. It's annoying when you turn, the steering wheel "kicks" when this happens.

I'll disconnect the bastard tonight.

Just as I thought... another one. Tell me if it solves the problem. My HKS t.t has a harness by the way, that is what I unplugged. I just wish someone can tell us a solution on this besides having to drop the whole Hicas off. I also noticed that this situation happens a lot on GT-R32s and not on any other Nissan that also has Hicas during it's time.

[niZmO_Man]

Apologies for the huge delay, I wasn't in the country after my previous post.

I disconnected the HKS turbo time on Sunday(has the wiring harness so just unplugged that), went for a quick drive and the issue didn't appear. Was heaps happy until the next day when I was driving back from work the HICAS "kick" showed it's ugly head again.

Now it doesn't matter whether I connect or disconnect the turbo timer, the HICAS light/kick in steering/noise from boot occurs randomly. I'm thinking perhaps it's the HICAS computer or some sort of electrical problem (I haven't done the HICAS diagnosis yet, will do on the weekend).

Also when I start the car I can hear about 4-5 clicks coming from the boot (HICAS pump?).

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

possible sticky relay contacts in the boot, or earth issue perhaps

[niZmO_Man]

Got an update on this issue, which popped up yesterday.

Volts got real low (dipped below 12 while engine was running), HICAS system goes spastic (flashing light, can very clearly hear the pump going off every second, steering obviously kicking in sync with the pump). The voltage would go as low as 6.5V while driving (lost radio, and eventually HICAS).

Went and bought a new battery, all sweet for a few minutes until the volts dropped below 12.5V.

Strange thing is, sometimes the volts would go up to the usual 13.5V mark and everything will run sweet.

So, the HICAS system is very sensitive to the voltage (as documented here on SAU), the strange thing is trying to locate source of the voltage drop.

I hope the alternator isn't dying. I've cleaned the plugs at the terminal with contact cleaner it fixed the issue for about a minute. One of the fusible links is a little dodgy, I might try to replace the terminal.

I'll also have a look at the alternator tomorrow and hopefully find some sort of resolution.

*edit*

Unplugging the HKS turbo timer doesn't make a difference. I'll suss out the wiring anyway in case it's not grounded properly.

[Moodles2]

Check if the alternator belt is slipping, with that voltage drop I'd be looking at the chassis ground and cleaning them up by sanding the paint/rust back, and even go as far as making a seperate (clean) ground for the alternator.

If all that doesn't solve it, new alternator

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

Check the main fuses in the engine bay also I had a cracked one show the same symptoms that you describe

Or do as moodles said above

Also check on the alternator

[niZmO_Man]

Well on the way back from work yesterday, alternator stopped charging completely. Managed to get the car off a busy road, and parked it in a side street (flat battery). Today, grabbed a second hand alternator, threw it in the car and away I went.

So far so good, no more flashing HICAS light as of yet. I still hear a solenoid clicking away in the passenger side of the boot. I'll suss it out tomorrow. I'll clean the grounds as well.

[niZmO_Man]

More problems rear end of the car is unstable now, especially at highway speeds. It essentially steers wherever it wants to now. I'm guessing the super low voltage/me unplugging the computer stuffed the rear rack up?

[Thelen]

unplugging the computer and low voltage wouldn't break it, unless it was a short or whatever, so it must be something else.

[niZmO_Man]

Sorry for not updating earlier.

In relation to this topic, replacement alternator fixed the HICAS issue (haven't had any steering kicks or the pump going spastic as of yet after a couple of weeks of driving).

As for the rear end issue, it looks like it's related to wheel alignment (toe out I'm guessing, I dropped backe the rear camber arms a bit and it has settled the rear end a bit).

tl;dr - HICAS is voltage sensitive.

[niZmO_Man]

I'm bumping this thread because it's relevant.

Since my last post, the 'HICAS' problem came back and I pretty much learned to live with it for almost a year. Yesterday I bought a fat earth cable and replaced the negative terminal. The HICAS problem hasn't occurred since I did the replacement. The radio antenna works now as well (I used to get terrible reception). The clock even works now!

If you own an R32, get at least a fat cable going from negative terminal to body. I bought one for $20 from Pep's store with a terminal attached to it.