Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks mate, Craig posted mine up too. :)

I have the wiring diag coming soon too hopefully, not that you will need it anymore... What are you upgrading to mate?

Since the Stag has been used by wife and kids for the past year I bought them a Nissan Murano, a little younger and less km and a more practical family car.

Since the Stag has been used by wife and kids for the past year I bought them a Nissan Murano, a little younger and less km and a more practical family car.

the muranos shape up pretty nice as well

the muranos shape up pretty nice as well

Great cars the Murano, but less good if you have small kids. The car seat tethers are mounted on the rear edge of the boot, so if you have child seats fitted the straps run across your entire boot... Nissan knew about this being an issue on the old Micra's, so made sure it was fixed on the new ones. Unfortunately Holden did not do the same research, so the Barina Spark joke boot, becomes unusable if you have little kids..

These Aussie only regs sometimes trip people up come compliance time...

thanks for the PDF!

scott i have the massive fold out wiring diagram for the entire car. if you need to borrow it, i can take photos and stitch them together

Iain, I presume you are talking about the large 300 x 420mm foldout Wiring Service Book? I have it also, as well as the late PN Series one.

If anyone in Vic wants to borrow them? Scott, I can bring it with me when i come and have a chat :thumbsup: along with other books/brochures if interested.....

post-12229-0-80328000-1292406903_thumb.jpg

Iain, I presume you are talking about the large 300 x 420mm foldout Wiring Service Book? I have it also, as well as the late PN Series one.

If anyone in Vic wants to borrow them? Scott, I can bring it with me when i come and have a chat :thumbsup: along with other books/brochures if interested.....

post-12229-0-80328000-1292406903_thumb.jpg

Yes please. :)

Got the beast fully detailed today, Probably the cleanest it has looked ever (except for the day the body kit was painted-pitty the front bar is split and I had to put on the stock one).

Haven't had many interested parties yet, must be the wrong time of the year to be selling a car.

Maybe I should sell my focus instead. :)

post-40391-0-89345700-1292572724_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

PRICE Drop $16500 it needs to go, If anyone is in the market for a M35 STAGEA here is a great car (Make me an offer)

My link

Edited by danwatt

Lousy time of year to sell anything, but best of luck its a nice looking ride.

Is the other front bar completely shot?

The the front bar had a 4 inch crack in it that has been repaired now, It needs a respray, was thinking of selling it

  • 4 years later...

here is the latest ECU pin outs I have collected so far.

Could someone confirm the crank POS And cam position sensor 1 are arse about in this diagram? I've belled out the crank sensor which goes to pin 65 not pin 95

RE greddy ultimate wiring

Mattpost-49288-0-24904600-1441866505_thumb.jpg

Edited by BoostdR

You are looking at the wrong pinout diagram, I had one translated in Japan which is more accurate than Danwatt's

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323254-m35-ecu-pinout/page-3

ECU_PINOUTS 13_12_10 (2).PDF

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...