Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just bought an rb26 flange of ebay thats been laser cut out to make my own exhaust up.

The thing isnt flat and the ports dont line up correctly. Yes it was done in australia.

Why cant people take pride in there work and check it out, close is not good enough people.

I just bought an rb26 flange of ebay thats been laser cut out to make my own exhaust up.

The thing isnt flat and the ports dont line up correctly. Yes it was done in australia.

Why cant people take pride in there work and check it out, close is not good enough people.

4 things guranteed in life

Death

Taxes

Work

and

Evil Cnts.

what was the price like though? was it cheap for what it is? if yes, then that explains it.

also was there any chance you had it upside down or back the front that may have caused things not to line up properly?

what was the price like though? was it cheap for what it is? if yes, then that explains it.

also was there any chance you had it upside down or back the front that may have caused things not to line up properly?

The price was 59 so its not cheap

But if you pay for something and its cheap does that mean they dont have to make it for the purpose ??

It will not go on back to front or upside down

Yes I have had it up against a stock flange its compared to the stock flange and gasket

Ok well I paid 59 for it and since its cheap it doesnt matter I have to throw it in the bin ??

Clearly its my fault I should have bought something more expensive.

If you bought a soccoer ball from ebay and it turned up square would you be happy because it was cheap

Awesome see even you guys are so used to having people supply you with shit stuff that your happy to accept it now.

  • Nope 1

Buy the items you need from a shop, if it doesnt fit, take it back and get one that does.

You see a shop owner will protect his/her rep on most occasions and you are supporting a local business which is good, as opposed to supporting a faceless profiteer from an auction website. So how much is your $59 flange worth to you now and how much was it to get one locally?

Ya dig?

have you though about modifying it to fit better?

or you could do the smart thing and instead of whinging about it on here, contact the seller and tell him you aren't happy with it, and it doesn't line up, etc, and either get a refund or a replacement for one that does what it's supposed to. send him pics.

this is the reason i don't buy much stuff over the net. i like to be able to look at it first so that if it is shit i don't buy it to start with.

Ive bought random stuff for my car from ebay and all though i havent had any major problems as .Yet everytime i get something it looks like its a factory reject ( you know people work there and things dont pass QC so someone has snuck it out of the bin and sold it) or something that fell of the back of a truck...

For this reason i always try to get things that are at least local so i can view before i buy, however that is easy being in melbourne..Not so easy for people that live in country towns and dont have that option..

I am usually of the opinion that often a quality product second hand is better than a cheap new one..

I got everything for my build second hand locally except for an exhaust gasket for 30$ off ebay...I still have my fingers crossed on that one...

Ebay is a gamble, just like online poker or pokies..

When you blow your cash gambling nobody cares..

What shits me is ebay is setup so you cant complain without a whole lot of hassle and thats what makes it easy for people to sell junk. I think this is the problem that needs to be solved

Edited by Arthur T3

Ive bought random stuff for my car from ebay and all though i havent had any major problems as .Yet everytime i get something it looks like its a factory reject ( you know people work there and things dont pass QC so someone has snuck it out of the bin and sold it) or something that fell of the back of a truck...

For this reason i always try to get things that are at least local so i can view before i buy, however that is easy being in melbourne..Not so easy for people that live in country towns and dont have that option..

I am usually of the opinion that often a quality product second hand is better than a cheap new one..

I got everything for my build second hand locally except for an exhaust gasket for 30$ off ebay...I still have my fingers crossed on that one...

Ebay is a gamble, just like online poker or pokies..

When you blow your cash gambling nobody cares..

What shits me is ebay is setup so you cant complain without a whole lot of hassle and thats what makes it easy for people to sell junk. I think this is the problem that needs to be solved

Yeah your right , you dont have much recourse on ebay which is bad. They will make you pay to ship it back which is not worth the effort

There are some good dealers on ebay , like lewis engines etc. I have got some great stuff off them. I expected this guy was the same , alas not so

Ok so I must be a whinger for getting something shit and talking about it here

Man what a pack of wankers you guys turned out to be

Yes yes, we all have good flanges, We are wankers arent we.

Yes yes, we all have good flanges, We are wankers arent we.

You weren't even in the conversation and you joined with that

I guess you left no doubt to your wanker status

well done

  • Nope 1

You weren't even in the conversation and you joined with that

I guess you left no doubt to your wanker status

well done

Why thank you, I'll remember that whilst I'm wanking over my perfectly good flange.

  • Like 1

Ok so I must be a whinger for getting something shit and talking about it here

Man what a pack of wankers you guys turned out to be

You purchased something off ebay, that was cheap.

There are plenty of laser cutters in each state that you can physically go down and talk too, ask them about quality, see their work.

I mean come on, "you asked why it was so hard to get good stuff", yet in the same post turns out you purchased it blindly off the internet.

Hell you don't even know if it was made here and the likelyhood it was, is slim. Its common sense.

People answered your issue and told you that you to spend money in most instances to get decent stuff

And then you get all emo about it? Odd

It's no different to buying a cheap materials/fittings for your house or something. Half the time they don't line up or they fail and you curse, takes time to fix and so on.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I take it that you bought the centre to suit the GTR axles? As in there was a plan, not just somehow lucky that it worked? It all looks excellent, by the way.
    • New engine block time. Up to you whether you want to keep going down this road with this project. Unfortunately a lot of these cars are like this. The road to getting these cars into decent shape is long and not fun for reasons that you're discovering. 
    • Essay time. First things first, an RB running stock turbo and boost levels shouldn't get so bad as to stall from reversion if the recirc valve has been deleted. Should get a little fluffy and annoying, but in my experience, not so bad as to stall. Of course, every car is a bit different, so it remains possible that stalling will happen. So, running with no recirc valve is somewhat of an option, for otherwise stock stuff. Atmo BOVs cause all sorts of shit, even on an otherwise stock setup. Only gets worse the higher the boost and the bigger the turbo. At that point you really need to go for a different ECU and no AFM. Rebuilding the stock recirc valve configuration is not hard. You just need a stock or aftermarket BOV with the appropriate adapter for the 2 bolt flange on the back of the J pipe, and to get/make an appropriate ~1" pipe to get the air back to the turbo inlet, and to possibly modify the inlet (if it is not stock) to take the recirc pipe back in. Not hard. Just takes some cutting and welding. Putting an R35 type AFM into the car anywhere is not as simple as just buying the AFM and throwing it in. You will also need to buy the appropriate boss that will then need to be welded onto the pipe where you're installing it. You can clearly see why by looking at the photo posted above. They are not a "simple" swap for a stocker. You can't put on in place of the stock AFM. You can put one in place of the stock AFM, if you get the mounting boss and weld it to some pipe and otherwise make that pipe piece work like the stock AFM housing. Or you can buy such an adapter, either complete with the 4 bolt flange for the air box, or without, for varying degrees of work needed to then make it fit your stock airbox or some pod filter or whatever you have going on. Oh, and the R35 AFM is not plug and play. The wiring is different, but changing that is trivial. The plug is also different so you either end up repinning the original wires onto the new plug, or you just use a short adapter. If you weld a boss to the cold side pipe, the cold side pipe really wants to be 3", otherwise the scaling on the meter can get a bit weird, but whatever the pipe size, it's not as easy as just using the (fully documented in the Nistune doco) simple method for choosing R35 AFM in X" pipe size in the software, because the scaling will already be a bit different. Anyway, all of this has been comprehensively worked through on the Nistune forums, so there is full knowledge available. I would use a Link/Haltech before I would bother putting an AFM into a cold side pipe. That's a lot of effort for a bodge. Nistune is great, can work well even at fairly high power levels, but you are stuck with the limitations of it being the stock ECU, which includes needing to use an AFM, which is not always convenient for every set of modifications. You have to have a think about what you already have, what you want to have, and decide early if you'd be better off jumping ship to an aftermarket ECU. This so you don't waste time and money doing things 2 or 3 times. Never heard of ECUmaster. Sounds like a backyard operation. If there are good tuners for it where you are, and it is a solid product, then it will be fine. We're only talking about an R engine here. Back in the day they all ran on crude nasty early 90s ECUs and they were fine. You don't need a rocket surgeon's ECU to run one.
    • So left off with high hopes of having a gearbox in pretty quickly........ Got the adapter plate that week and had to chase a few threads and work out how/where everything goes as no instructions. Got the adapter fitted, test fitted gearbox and found had to cut and shave a few things. Tunnel required some hits with a decent hammer to give some clearance on passenger side but it fits with no problems,  could fit a 8hp70 with a little more work. For a cross member I wasn't going to spend $1100 on so shiny machined piece. Went through a few designs and remembered I had a gktech s chassis to cd00# cross member. Fitted that and found its close enough with a few extra bits welded so have gone that way and still a work in progress.  After this got into modifying the intercooler with some bends and clamps. I was procrastinating on this as was not keen to cut up and weld it myself but happy with the outcome.  Onto the radiator shroud and oil cooler mount. This thing took way longer than I thought it would but having to add an extra oil cooler for the trans and wanting everything within the chassis rails its good enough for now. It mounts to the chassis and gives plenty of room for lines and pipes. All the coolers are rubber mounted and sealed the shroud on the top and sides, will use some tape to seal the bottom gap of about 10mm. 20250508_111500.mp4   Next job was to build the new diff and after a delay with a friend got built this week. I ended up putting it all together with supervision and was good to learn how to set one up correctly. I ended up going a 3.69 ratio, nismo 1.5 way gt pro with gtr Axel's. Stripped it all down, gave all the parts a good clean, pressed on new bearings and set backlash. Was good working in a clean assembly room with all the gear. Once got home wire wheeled the case and hit it with some rollbar/chassis black paint. Got a few more bits done but will leave them for the next update.
    • That could be drilled, ground and welded. Would stop it progressing and leaking. But that block shouldn't be pushed very hard, as what you see there is a massive warning sign. But that fix also isn't going to happen properly with the engine in the car, and assembled. So you're looking at anew block if you're doing all that work anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...