Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you can find 3 local tuners who can tune, recommend and use it and can offer a reasonable price for install and tune go for it. there is no point picking an ECU that no one can tune, so best you check before anything.

my advice do like everyone else

powerfc

nistune

vipec

should be lots of local tuners, good options, good pricing as you can choose the tuner etc

fkn megasquirts is all ill say.

Ive added them to my no touch list as all the owner built ones seem to come in with a plethora of issues.....

^^

there are much better ecu"s out there, i had a mate try 1 in his datto w/CA18..........it was a nightmare to setup as he used a ford ignition w/crank pick up and there was no tech support as they are based in england (so you have to call them at crazy hours).

stick to what has been tried & tested - Vipec/Link, Power FC, Nistune. at least all these are plug & play ecu's. there are plenty of people out there that have a lot of experiance with them.

Megasquirt is a good ecu but you have to have someone that knows what he's doing to work on it. A friend of mine got one in his BMW that made 390+ rwhp and 390+ torque. Car is insane, but.... i wouldnt put it in my skyline, too much hassle to make it work on a RB motor.

for what it's worth any ECU can make power, any ECU can make 100rwkw, 200rwkw, 800rwkw, 1200rwkw

how the ECU is tuned, the car, the usage requirement, it's usability, how it installs, features, support when things go wrong, price and availability of tuners is what is the deciding factor when choosing an ECU

so forget how much power a guy can make using an ECU

megasquirt is a owner made ecu for tinkering around and just having a mess around, great if you want to add loads of custom features yourself or are making an old carby car ecu but if you are not doing it yourself all you are doing is making it impossible for the tuner for no gain, generally they aren't a very good ECU and I would say its a large downgrade over a nistune.

Nistune is what I'd recommend for a near stock car, cheap, looks standard, no new wiring, simple to tune and large amount of tuners available.

^^ exactly they are generally fine with owners who have a clue about wiring and electronic principles, in fact give good results on the cheap as the owner can get most parts (triggers sensors etc from wrecking yards)but the the problem is most people with no clue see the price then buy it. try install it... fail then drop it to a workshop to sort out.... which is a night mare for us as often it is cheaper and easy to rip the lot out stick a std loom back in nistune it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...