Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

So how is everyones cars coming along? I've made a lot of changes to my car in the search for speed.

The latest update is fitting 18x10.5in TE37 SL's under my little GTSt. I'll be running 265 tyres all round to try and handle the new grunt from an RB25.

For those that are interested. Here is my build thread

i had a mate that was keen to drive at SL but aparently the entries were filled in hours.

never mind.

its good to see a motorsport even filling the openings.

Same. was hoping to have the car ready in about another month but given the entry list filled in hours we were way off beam.

Will still spectate though. Awesome event.

My god! Is that your road car or a second shell? Either way that is cooool. They are such good things in basic tune there seems to be a lack of seriously gutted and modded examples around! Real curious to know how much of their weight is all the doo-dahs electric things and how much is simple meat in the chassis?!?!

thats my second car, a JDM we picked up cheap.

we cant confidently dissect the wiring loom which is enormous and heavy, nor delete any computers. the essential components of chasis engine and tranny arent light.

hope to get down to 1500kg depending on cage. stock is about 1730kg

^^^^^ that's the experience we had when building Giant's too..... Anything we could actually remove didn't weigh anything, and the things we though we could get away with removing sent it into shock. :)

The body itself is extremely strong and stiff, and are built quite different to anything I've seen.

So for once I paid attention to all the Face book spam Superlap sends out lol

http://www.worldtimeattack.com/index.php/open-class-avo-turboworld-vl-commodore/

Reckon It will do any good?

Will be fast in a straight line...but it may take flight by the end of the main straigh

GT42 on a 'circuit build'. Yeah nice one!

Same thing I thought incidentally with 600rwkw dyno pony...

Put a GT35 on it, then there would be interesting... If you can keep it pointed in the general direction of forward of course :D

It will have weight advantage on it's side though to be fair. It's a SL or similar so IIRC they are around 1250-1280 stock which isn't bad. Final weight would be interesting with the heavy Ford 9" but reduced fuel tank etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am probably calling this too early but I think I found what part of my problem is. I have a couple of dents that are fairly close to each other and I tried to fix them individually. Recently I put one larger coat across all the dents and sanded it and for the first time ever it's all even except for the edge where the bare metal is, I just need to put some putty there. I'm ordering some better longer blocks that are more flexible. Other good news is that the other repairs on my panel are flat even with the guidecoat. It's these 2 dents which are an absolute c*nt l lol.
    • Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...
    • Where is the most common place to locate it? Disappointing that Garrett won’t make a fitting for it since they know everyone will use it
    • A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
×
×
  • Create New...