Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If the motor is happy revving there then I dont see why not. The torque and power character of the setup would influence the load on the motor, there is no denying that. It just might be as happy spinning to 8 as a different setup would be spinning to 7.

The forces created by an identical stroke/bore motor revving to those speeds is identical if all the same parts are used, the torque is obviously different though.

I guess what I was getting at is 8.5k is getting very close to the limit where stock rod bolts etc let go if held there for extended periods of time.

Edited by Rolls

my r33 will be going back into trent(status) soon, hopefully before christmas. my t67-25g setup has been proving very good, no issues yet except for my gearbox. trent, if you read this :P the gearbox shit the tin 2 weeks after the dyno runs so im going to guess it was slipping when tuned, and also the converter is a bit spongy and needs a rebuild(checked by knox automatics). ive been told the solenoids are fkd, the clutch drum for 3rd/over drive is worn out, and the band needs replacing haha. Anyway, i have just bought myself a fully manualised ford c4 street strip box brand new from rocket to go into the car, along with a 3000 stall converter, and a b & m megashifter. i have changed i/c the pipework again since the last tune(only made 255rwkw) and planning on going 4" inlet and moving the afm into the intercooler pipe. ive also heat wrapped the exhaust, sorted out the manifold flex issue and bought a turbo blanket. hopefully this time round, upping the boost to around 20-22psi i can make the 300rwkw i was hoping for.

my r33 will be going back into trent(status) soon, hopefully before christmas. my t67-25g setup has been proving very good, no issues yet except for my gearbox. trent, if you read this :P the gearbox shit the tin 2 weeks after the dyno runs so im going to guess it was slipping when tuned, and also the converter is a bit spongy and needs a rebuild(checked by knox automatics). ive been told the solenoids are fkd, the clutch drum for 3rd/over drive is worn out, and the band needs replacing haha. Anyway, i have just bought myself a fully manualised ford c4 street strip box brand new from rocket to go into the car, along with a 3000 stall converter, and a b & m megashifter. i have changed i/c the pipework again since the last tune(only made 255rwkw) and planning on going 4" inlet and moving the afm into the intercooler pipe. ive also heat wrapped the exhaust, sorted out the manifold flex issue and bought a turbo blanket. hopefully this time round, upping the boost to around 20-22psi i can make the 300rwkw i was hoping for.

looking forward to your results.

what other mods do you have?

inj/manifold/gate/ etc.

Goodluck with the C4 man!

My brother uses one in his Sigma but its a bit rough for my liking.. Not a brand new rebuilt job just a used one with a stally and shift kit.

Personally I would have gone for a 4L60 (turbo700) but thats just because im scared of hard shifts lol.

How much did the prebuilt C4 set you back and rekon it would be any good for circuit work or drag only? Shift quality I mean.

if you look back around pages 25-30 of this thread u can see my original build. but yeah, all suporting mods, 700cc inj, walbro 255lph pump, stock intake(this is for testing atm, no-one else has done a setup with the stock plenum and this turbo as far as i know), XSpower highmount - wouldnt suggest these, on a hot run, the manifold buckled and needed extra bracing, umm power fc,3" mandrel stainless exhuast all custom made, z32 afm, blitz suspower pod, 44mm gate, turbosmart plumback bov etc etc. i might change the injectors before a re-tune aswell, they are only flowed stock injectors and i dont know how good they are.

cant say how much i paid for the gearbox ;), but you wouldnt get change from 5k, but it depends on what version you buy, there is 3 of them.

i will put it back on the dyno with the manifold its got for now, the gearbox has kinda chewed up the funds i had ready for buying engine some nice spool internal engine parts, and replacing things i had problems with haha. but i will be changing to a 6boost in future, they are proven items and worth the extra cash. the external gate im not sure what brand, i bought it from the USA for about $150 aus + post, and surpriginly, ive had no boost creep and it holds shut until right on 17 psi, so its doing its job none the less, although im taking the 17 pound spring out, and putting in a 12 psi and going to run a dual stage controller so i can turn it down on the street.

Edited by OMY31T

Running that little boost will test out the wastegate's capabilities

certainly will, wether or not i run as low as 12psi im not sure of, being 44, it should be capable of running as little as 15psi, i just dont want to be running a min of 17 all the time and up to a max of say 22, id rather wind it back to a tidy 220rwkw for day to day driving if i can.

Is that on a stock JZ zeb??

my gate came with 7 different springs rated up to 25psi..

thinking I'll just get target my boost with springs and not worry about any controller..is this a good idea??

what are the disadvantages (if any) of not running a boost controller, apart from not being adjustable on the fly...

bah,, pansy...my BW setup will have a 2 bar spring in the gate lol

whats the point of having 2 bar on the street? roads are not made for racing, nor good handling, ill keep my 300+rwkw for the strip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...