Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

An update on my TD05H-18g adventure:

Installed the Kando T518Z copy today on a SR20DE+T along with a Kando SR20 manifold. The manifold was really high quality for what its worth, changed the entire sound of the car now. The TD05-18g went on without any drama, replacing the OEM S14 T28. All lined up perfect ETC.

The driving experience surprisingly has not changed dramatically. Under 2000rpm there IS a notable loss, however you only notice this when creeping away at those revs. Any level of spirited drive has a near lossless experience.

I would say the T28 is entirely progressive in its delivery, packing its best punch just before 4000rpm. The 18g seems to have equal effect from 2000rpm to 3000rpm, from 3000 to 4000 you get a significant increase in pull from the T28 and at roughly 4000rpm the power comes in thick and strong with a 'full song' effect.

I am very impressed with it so far, am very much looking forward to the full tune with double the boost.

What power are u hoping for Jase?

I have an S14 thats looking to upgrade from stock. Maybe this is what he needs.

Being Nistuned by Unigroup for this one, expecting to see 240rwkw BUT am hoping for over 250.

Have seen a couple of these doing 240rwkw with very respectable boost (16-18psi). As you know Im pretty gung ho so Im going to have them turn up the whick on this one until it starts to cap off.

I would put it as a little laggier than a disco, yet making GTRS power. For the record the delivery absolutely shits all over a GTRS and I'm expecting it will make the same power.

well to give you a idea i had a kando td05h18g on my 180sx sr20det non vct tuned by unigroup on 19psi by 4200rpm and made 231rwkw

^^^thats sounds like HKS 2530 numbers, response samish aswell

cheers

darren

Really? I get the same boost response and more power from the bigger TD06-20G on an RB20 and people are forever telling me the SR spools turbos better then the RB20

Well its typical to what i have personally done and seen on others..Rb20 wise i have no idea, haven't had anything to do with them, i don't even like Rb25's..lol, to laggy... i like

sohc forklift motors..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

What gear and what boost?

This is an old dyno sheet of an old tune...but paints the general picture. This is without en EBC, just straight off the gate with a bleed

med_gallery_462_50_171164.jpg

But generally speaking I make over 200rwkws from 4,500rpm and in 4th gear the gate opens at 4,000rpm

well to give you a idea i had a kando td05h18g on my 180sx sr20det non vct tuned by unigroup on 19psi by 4200rpm and made 231rwkw

Well they better be ready to man up because I want more than that lol

was the 8cm i reckon on a few more psi of boost and it would of cracked 250rwkw but i didnt try as i only had 555cc injectors and had it up to 237rwkw same boost but tuner finished up on 231rwkw and it backed it up at wsid quarter mile running a 12.5 at 117.9mph with a shit 60ft of 2.19

when i changed it had barely any preload on the actuator so thats why it was a bit lazy on to boost

so its definately very similar in power output to a t518z which its the same as

my brother made 240rwkw on 21psi but with the greddy t518z

so if you really want to crack 250rwkw be willing to run above 20psi the suggested boost is 1.5bar anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...