Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10x1.25 iirc and about 65mm long I am told

Yep. Although with a 15mm spacer I used 57mm studs and they have plenty of room, so unless you need a 20mm spacer I'd say 65mm would be a bit long. Unless the Kando flange is thicker than the HG flange, I don't know.

hmmm

will send pm in a min

not ready to buy yet

will buy one of these first

http://www.summitrac...-2046/?rtype=10

to be 100% happy on the way it fits

Your going to spend 400 bucks on a foam LS1 to see if it fits?

LOL

dude its a commondoor motor... Why not go on a common forum and look for a blown one for $50

thanks guys

ARTZ, did you use a 10/15/20mm flange spacer?

found that ARTZ used a 10mm spacer and it "just" cleared.

might go 15mm for peace of mind.

so new update part list:

10-15mm spacer (up to you what size you want to get) $30

new exhaust manifold studs & nuts x12 ea (if needed) $110~ (nissan) or generic stuff from local exhaust place ($50~) - this is optional but if you break a stud or round one, you will need to replace them but it is a good thing to replace them all anyway and is cheap insurance that your studs won't break or round.

Dori you should do a DIY thread with pics for a 20g 10cm and document your results. Itd be nice to see the bare minimum done to fit one up, and documented for all to see.

Dori you should do a DIY thread with pics for a 20g 10cm and document your results. Itd be nice to see the bare minimum done to fit one up, and documented for all to see.

good idea,

i shall get started after the new year once i get all the parts.

cars booked in for 16th Jan.

thanks guys

ARTZ, did you use a 10/15/20mm flange spacer?

10mm

Dori you should do a DIY thread with pics for a 20g 10cm and document your results. Itd be nice to see the bare minimum done to fit one up, and documented for all to see.

jeez man i have documented nearly my whole build in here...

what would u like that i have not provided :(

BITCH!!!

Car went great at drifting yesterday.

Only issue's i had was a busted radiator from the fan coming in contact (.5mm contact) , i popped the cooler pipe off twice. And i need a tighter diff centre. The GTR one just kept going open.

Other than that was a great day out. This turbo is very nice to drive with. On song hard by 4000rpm all the way to limiter at 7400. I will definately be fixing up the vct and tuning it to 18psi. At the moment with no boost controller and a tiny 35mm turbosmart gate it starts at 11psi and climbs to 17 by redline, starts getting crazy at 17.

I'll post up some incar vids once i get them off the GoPro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...