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Yes. If you do a direct comparison on a Turbo with and without antisurge. The antisurge will have less boost response and less power all over. Because a percentage of air is always going though the antisurge slots bypassing the optimum point where the air should be going (tips of the inducer on the wheel) instead its entering from the sides.

Do you know how a spray gun works? The air flowing past the slot should promote more air to be pulled into the compressor from the surge slot using a venturi effect, this would only work up to a certain pressure obviously where the air would flow back the other way.

I would like to smoke test the front of one while its strapped down the the dyno, you should be able to see the air being sucked into the surge slots not blowing out. Perhaps someone with a map sensored car can do it for us?

Do you know how a spray gun works? The air flowing past the slot should promote more air to be pulled into the compressor from the surge slot using a venturi effect, this would only work up to a certain pressure obviously where the air would flow back the other way.

I would like to smoke test the front of one while its strapped down the the dyno, you should be able to see the air being sucked into the surge slots not blowing out. Perhaps someone with a map sensored car can do it for us?

The air flowing past the slot would create a vacuum in the slot and thus pull air out of the turbo blades...

Scotty not sure if your agreeing with me or not or if that comment was meant for me. But that's exactly what I'm saying, the slots will we sucking in air the whole time to Turbo isn't surging. And will spit out surging air then recirculate it back to the compressor.

I'm thinking of going the oil only 20g, mirror copy of the trust item.

Can anyone give me a reasonable against argument to make me buy the water and oil item? As ive now got a 6boost to hang the thing off, i just want less clutter and less bolts that need to be turned over and over when removing/refitting the thing and obviously less cost in getting 4AN hoses in the right length for the water.

Can anyone sway me as to why I shouldnt get the oil only item? NB all the T67s we see are oil only, while the usual 20g items are oil and water.

FYI kando also make their oil only CHRA with a smaller hub centre on the wheel and advertise it as increased flow. Does anyone want to say NAO to that? I fear larger surface area may mean slower spool. My intention is widest powerband and 270-300kw.

Can anyone explain why on the kando ebay store it says that the td07/t67 is supposed to be for a 1.8L to 3L engine

when the smaller (i think) td06 is ment for a minimum 2.5L?

I'm planning on getting a td05 or td06 for my rb20 in the near future but if the td07 is ment for smaller application i might consider it.

Robert thats not really how it works.

Please look up the member Roy and study his setup. For a long time he had a staple TD06 20G 8cm highmount RB20, hes now done a bit more like E85 and a plazmaman plenum and has hit the magic 300 mark.

First pick your power goals and then pick your turbo to suit. Kando now give the option of T3 external gate TD05H's which I think would be a good thing on the RB20.

First pick your power goals and then pick your turbo to suit. Kando now give the option of T3 external gate TD05H's which I think would be a good thing on the RB20.

yeah this is the turbo I'm pretty set on as it will give good power and still have decent response, I know the td06's are ment to be monsters but on the 20 the lag will just be to annoying for the street.

yeah this is the turbo I'm pretty set on as it will give good power and still have decent response, I know the td06's are ment to be monsters but on the 20 the lag will just be to annoying for the street.

For a solid 240kw I would say this should hit the spot:

http://www.ebay.com....=item4165d4ffdc

plus

http://www.ebay.com....=item416678841f

Get a gate plumbed off the rear housing and hang it off the stock manifold. Beauty!

i was thinking this...but i would prefer a 3" inlet?

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2574wt_1270

but i should fully read stuff first, your post basically gave be the best of both worlds :P

cheers mate ;)

Edited by RBert

The one I posted is the exact same turbo, except it has a 3" inlet and Ive posted the CHRA and housing separate (just because they didnt have a 3" one listed in one piece).

Realistically it doesnt matter if u get the 3" or the 2.4"...... But if u go the 2.4" ull be able to use the stock intake pipe for teh epic stealth ;) just need to make a heatshield to cover the gate.

Re your 6boost idea... a twin scroll 6boost is epic........... WHEN USED WITH A TWIN SCROLL TURBO lol. The kando range are not twin scroll, so it will do you no justice. if you want to get a twin scroll and highmount the turbo that is also a good idea, but adds another 1200+ of expense when you could get a similar result from the stock manifold and be very stealth. Imagine ripping people at the drags and looking like your running something pretty ordinary, dickkk scchhhhwwwiing.

If I had an RB20 powered car I would probably do the exact setup we are talking about. Stock manifolds, TD05H 18G with a gate off the housing. Stealthed up and stock position. Like I said 230-240kw and it would be pretty responsive/solid. Ive recently done a TD05H 18G SR20DE and that is a weapon. Faster than a 260rwkw 3076R SR20DET (both S13s).

Get the housing nice an hot, bake it in the oven or BBQ, I think Scott just used a blow torch to heat up mine. The cool it slow bury it in sand or something, I'm sure Scott will fill you in soon anyway..

In other news, where's that 300kw club :whistling:

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