Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So a 3076R 0.63 which is smaller is EVERY way can be ok on a 30DET but this is too small...

i think you are missing the point here! you are saying that the turbo is ramping too early and has no legs up top? im saying too small as in maybe they sent you thr wrong turbo!

a t67 should but upwards of 300+wkw with no issues what so ever!

Hey guys,

In a bit of a pickle, I've got a TD06-20G 12cm on my RB25 and it's a lot laggier than I expected. Although it wasn't tuned on what boost I wanted (20psi), it's only running 13.

I'm guessing that the turbo isn't in it's sweet spot and is taking it's time doing anything. I've been searching for weeks about info on the 12cm but I can't find shit (yes I have searched this thread many times!).

Has anyone run or tuned such a beast on a 25?

It made around 235kw which is decent power for the boost run I guess but yeah wasn't expecting it to have full boost around 5500rpm, any ideas?

Edited by Run-It-Hard

Hey guys,

In a bit of a pickle, I've got a TD06-20G 12cm on my RB25 and it's a lot laggier than I expected. Although it wasn't tuned on what boost I wanted (20psi), it's only running 13.

I'm guessing that the turbo isn't in it's sweet spot and is taking it's time doing anything. I've been searching for weeks about info on the 12cm but I can't find shit (yes I have searched this thread many times!).

Has anyone run or tuned such a beast on a 25?

It made around 235kw which is decent power for the boost run I guess but yeah wasn't expecting it to have full boost around 5500rpm, any ideas?

12cm rear will add to the lag

chuck a few more pounds into it and see how it perfoms but will def be sluggish under 4k

It's out of the boat yard finally :P

Will more boost change the power curve, i.e turbo start working it's magic earlier? I was looking at two graphs somewhere in this monstrous thread and it seemed this way (same car, two sheets at diff boost levels). But yeah I'm noob with this stuff.

Hmm I wonder if that 10cm would fit.

Is it a TD06S or TD06SL2? That will change what housing you need to buy.

Either way a 20G on a RB25 with whatever rear housing should be running a 10cm.

Your 12cm is just making it doughier without benefit. Easily fixed though as mentioned.

Also, is it a T3 or genuine trust 3 bolt?

It's a TD06S and it is a T3.

Spewing eh! Ahwell I got it cheap ($600 via Ebay special). Atleast it's fixable, just a pain in the arse lol.

I wonder if Raz' 10cm rear would fit my turbo, hmmmm.

Cheers for all the help guys :)

Unfortunately it wont.

The SL2 is 61mm but the S is 65mm. Kando doesnt even sell housings for the S no more.. You are better off selling it as is to someone with a bigger motor and swapping it out for a Kando item. Im guessing its also internal gate with that abortion of a 3 bolt discharge?

Unrucky.

Alternatively, you can send it to Hypergear who will be able to machine up one of his 5 bolt Type B rear housings to make it dance.

Hey guys,

In a bit of a pickle, I've got a TD06-20G 12cm on my RB25 and it's a lot laggier than I expected. Although it wasn't tuned on what boost I wanted (20psi), it's only running 13.

I'm guessing that the turbo isn't in it's sweet spot and is taking it's time doing anything. I've been searching for weeks about info on the 12cm but I can't find shit (yes I have searched this thread many times!).

Has anyone run or tuned such a beast on a 25?

It made around 235kw which is decent power for the boost run I guess but yeah wasn't expecting it to have full boost around 5500rpm, any ideas?

i saw trent talking about running a tdo6 (of some description) with 12cm combo on a neo...my guess is it will come on a little later but make hard power all the way to 8000rp+ and then some ...5500 does seem a little ridiculous though..vct working?

So pump it full of boost and rev it hard and hopefully you should see some good results..good for hard sliding anyway...if its a streeter/racer drop it back to 10cm...

Here you go Jez

2hq8qp4.jpg

As far as I know, it's a untouched RB25. Full boost is actually 5750rpm lol, as you can see it's a slug to drive off boost too.

I've spoken to Eiji and they do make a 10cm rear for my turbo so I'll probably get that sometime next year.

Really wasn't expecting it to be THIS laggy, live and learn I suppose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...