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any recomendations to get a bit more power? do you guys think i could crack 260kw if i add external wastegate? adjust the cams? and go to a different tunner? JEM maybe ? i dont think incar racing was up to scratch with the tune.. when i mentioned to play with my adjustable cam gears they said it would make no difference and thats when i knew he was probably not the best tunner to take my car.. only went there because my mate works at the place...

When do you make full boost vs rpm?

I'm looking to swap to e85 and crack 260+ (dreaming right?)

Kane_R32 full boost is at about 4000rpm and it pulls all the way to 8000rpm with wheel spin and everything.. im running 9.5 all round with new rubber..

power at the moment in 235kw on united e85 on 18 psi hoping to get more as im limited with the internal gate not holding more boost..

im going external gate and new ebc and will tune again hopefully before the year ends.. and post up results to see how it goes

You could buy a stiffer spring from kinugawa. The range goes up to 29 psi.

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/adjustablespring-2.aspx

I bought a softer one to run only 12 psi as I still run on standard tune at the moment. I'll install it tomorrow.

A lot cheaper than going EWG and it will get you to your power goal without to much hassles. ;)

With the standard spring the boost seems pretty solid, at least in fourth gear. It gets to 15 psi quickly enough and holds there until about 6000 rpm as I hit the speed limiter.

I was a little scared to get some boost creep because a lot of IWG kando seems to have this problem, Apparently mine does not, at least not at this power/boost/max rpm level. I might get some with the 12 psi spring.

1 bar at the moment. :whistling:

And I plan to lower this to 0.8b with the new spring.

I will not boost it over this figure for a while. I have things to do to finish the swap (blow by routing, and finding why the AAC valve is fully opened all the time).

Anyway I don't feel much more torque beyond 0.8b, there is a gain obviously, but it doesn't justify the fuel the ECU throw at the engine tu run this boost.

Hmm the 18G wheel is that middle point so I wouldn't be surprised if it needed a set amount of boost to do its thing.

However if you wanted more response (Kane) you could take from Lith's experiences and swap to a 16G6 core (it will bolt straight on without modification AT ALL).

In old speak the commonly used sizes were 16g, 18g and 20g, with flow increasing respectively.. However with the introduction of the Evo 3 there was a revised 16g called the 16g6 which (on paper and at peak flow) flowed within 10hp of the 20g and picked up SFA lag over the old 16g (which was notably more responsive than an 18g). The change was to go to a larger OD compressor and keep a small inducer, meaning its a small trim wheel and is happy opperating at higher PR.

Therefore a quick swap to a 16g6 and a couple of hundred on a retune could see you making the same power on a couple of PSI more boost, but with improved response.

Sorry for the blab. Food for thought!

I'm running the Kinugawa rb20/25 high flow (not sure what the official name is) on a S2 rb25.

Ran on low boost (~200-210rwkw) at Winton all weekend due to misfiring old coil packs and it was still fantastic. Boost came on smoothly and it didn't skip a beat.

Car has been tuned for 245rwkw at 17psi. Other details can be found in the rb25 turbo sticky thread.

The 18G compressor housing would need to go as well, of course.... so I'd have thought you may as well replace the entire turbo if you are going to go to a 16G.

We have run an EVO 16G6 from an actual EVO on an RB20DET and from memory were getting full boost somewhere between 3500 and 4000rpm - was a long time ago. The Kando 16G6 we have on the SR20DET is hitting 18psi by around 3500rpm.

Kane, there are 2 ways to do it. As noted by Lith you will need a new comp housing... So you can do one of the following:

A: buy a new core and housing, sell your old core and housing:

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turbocompressorhousing3td06garrett60-1wheel-1-1.aspx

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turbocartridgechradsmeclipsetalonevo3td05h16g.aspx

Rough cost $440

Or;

B: buy a new housing and wheel kit, then have it installed and your existing turbo re-balanced:

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/mitsubishi3turboanti-surgecompressorhousingandwheetd05htd0616g.aspx

Rough cost $250 (I would do it this way, provided you find a reputable and affordable turbo reco place)

However I would ask for a non anti-surge housing. You can email them and ask for stuff per normal.

Option B looks very viable, so somewhere like GCG should be able to assist yeah?

Is there a 16G and then 16G6?

edit: just re-read you wrote the 16G6 is a revised 16G. So the specs of the Kando marry up to 16G6?

Edited by Kane_R32

LOL well if you are going to retune on E85 there is basically only going to be gains... The 16G6 will flow similar to a 20G once you get the PR up there, and E85 is going to let you do it ;)

FYI Kando DO sell the small 16G and 16G6, typically they will call the 16G6 the Evo 3 spec item.

If you need help to order or want to be sure your getting the right stuff just drop me a line :)

  • 1 month later...

As promised, stock SR20DET, flex fuel, ~17psi with internally gated TD05H 16G6 8cm housing. Heaps more in it, but this is more than enough for a stock engine track car for now :-) 17psi was hit between 3300-3400rpm, dyno run as per Status Dynapack advised setup to keep things comparable :

attachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1376718374549.jpg

So we finally have a local drag strip almost ready to open and my mate who owns this Silvia wouldn't mind getting the car to the strip for a bit of fun so we went out for a bit of road tuning recently to squeeze a bit more out of it. For reference sake it made 250rwkw @ ~16-17psi on E80 with a completely unopened SR20DET and made full boost at 3500rpm, so we went out with the plan of winding it up until we ran out of fuel or hit 20psi - as it turns out we maxed out the ID1000s (55psi base pressure) at more or less bang on 20psi, so that all matched up pretty well.

With the Kando 1bar actuator I am having to push up around 75% duty cycle to maintain ~130-136kpa boost (~19-20psi) over 5500rpm, which is working a fair bit harder than when we were working with 16-17psi - at the moment I am guessing it MIGHT be more to do with the actuator as going by what I've done with the fuel map to keep it happy at around 20psi it is still pumping pretty good air through the engine. It doesn't really warrant a full dyno tune, but the owner MAY get a power run in sometime to see what the changes have made. What I can report is it has made a heck of a difference in terms of how the car goes, it feels like an animal compared to what it was on 16-17psi and our datalog analysis agrees that it is going a lot better - so I'd say if it goes on the dyno it'll blow the old 250kw effort out the water. Should be interesting to see how it goes on the 1/4 :)

I will provide results if or when that all happens!

cant be f**ked looking through this all, but anyone got any dyno sheets for a RB25 with a TD06SL2 20G 10cm rear housing? and a pist with the rear housing? I think they sent me the wrong one . . . .

thanks heaps, i had the pages bookmarked but got a new comp

Just recently got my rb25 tuned ... I only got 350rwhp out of the td07 t25g with 10cm anti surge comp housing @ 18 psi... I was thinking its good for 400hp at those psi levels ? ...

Any ideas why it didn't hit 400?

Typical supporting mods, 550cc inj, z32 afm, powerfc, 3" dump intO twin 2.25 no cat, big fmic and forward facing plenum.

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