Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For the money I would rather get genuine nismo 740s. The Nismo 740s are meant to be very good to tune with, as good as stock and better than the Nismo 555s.

Do it once, do it right.

deatchwerks are meant to be very good as well from what Ive read

I'm all for cost saving on things like the turbo, if its built to spec then its built to spec.

But injectors I believe are a different ball game. I'd get the Nismo's, they are what they are meant to be. Purpose built to replace the RB/SR side feeds.

Why not try find a genuine used set?

Otherwise get a FReddy and china rail + bosch (my 2nd choice and FReddy + T67 seems to = WIN)

I'm all for cost saving on things like the turbo, if its built to spec then its built to spec.

But injectors I believe are a different ball game. I'd get the Nismo's, they are what they are meant to be. Purpose built to replace the RB/SR side feeds.

deatchwerks are built to spec and with a proper spray pattern, they bolt straight in and are highly regarded, from what I've read they are just as good as the nismos and there is no reason to doubt them.

old truck turbo.

i just killed my 1st set of tyres. On 9 psi this 20g has no problems laying 3rds, going much better now with the correct spark plugs, its a 2nd hand motor and i never checked the plugs when i fitted it.

i took a rolling 1st 2nd 3rd video but for some reason it didnt record sound

25. Stock with injectors and turbo. Very curious to see what power it will make. Planning to be at eastern creek drift day next thursday

So whats your current opinion on the 9psi its on? Comparable to what?

I used the tight ass method, cut the water line above the banjo fitting then braze over the hole with an oxy and bolt back on!

alternatively you could just run a hose straight from the water source at the inlet manifold to a fitting in water return on the block..

alternatively you could just run a hose straight from the water source at the inlet manifold to a fitting in water return on the block..

More things to go wrong man.. useless hoses melting and crap like that.

Just block em.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...