Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

splitter stays in the final product looks good and i cant see any problems with defects its alot better then having a turbo reaching for the sky and saying ill take a red one officer. on my set up i had no problems with boost control after my MBC was removed i was using a small gate to 35mm. the 44mm will have no problems controlling things. i think the external gate on the manifold will help the mani flow so much more then without. iv had 260kw though a 38 pipe a 44 could flow over 300+ im guessing

yeah i know il correct myself 200 depending on turbo. it comes down to personal preferance i like it on the manifold as i can put a diferent turbo on if i blow one with the housing your restricted to what turbo can be used. im going to be putting a gt3040 on one of these manifolds and there is no way im welding to one of those housings

External gate is VERY hard to keep hidden. Even custom jobs that I have seen where the intention was to hide the gate, it's still easily spotted if the cops are looking around. if you're worried about cops at all, I wouldn't be going external gate.

I'm not worried about them at all hanaldo I'm just trying to keep it away from first thing to be seen if you know what I mean

And keeping it easy for turbo change if need be for pits

Edited by luvpsi

That's it alot of the time if something catches there eye they will defect you most if the time they don't get there heads in the engine bay just look for something sticking out they are like crows shining things get there attention

I was trying for stealth too with my setup, thats why I avoided external gate for a while, but the boost control is awesome it sounds great.

I have heard both good and bad stories about welding on the manifold, but as of yet I have never heard any issues with welding on the housing of the turbo - provided it is in the correct spot for flow, there is a diagram somewhere about it.

I got mine heat sprayed aswell for stealth+ cooling ( for cooling it was a waste of time, cant remember all up but I think was about 400 for manifold and turbo housing and had to send it away for a week ) but I think the matt balck does help instead of a bright colour.

Decided to make a aluminium heatshield aswell to cover the external gate - which 1. worked way better for hiding things 2. actually functioned as a great heat barrier.

Maybe you could do something like that? Sure, a cop if they were keen could see something, but with the intake pipe ontop and other crap its very hard to tell and just looks like a heat shield... if they are that keen they will get you either way.....

This was while I was finishing drilling the holes for it:

photo.jpgphoto3.jpg

photo4.jpgphoto2.jpg

photo1.jpg

Quoted from the Turbosmart installation manual:

- DO NOT wrap the body of the wastegate with exhaust wrap

- DO NOT Mount the wastegate so that the top diaphragm housing is less than 100mm from a heat source

- Allow for adequate cool airflow around the top diaphragm housing

In nsw the cops are lazy. My mate with a 33 god defected for the STD bov then he had to get a blueslip to pass so no matter what you do they will pick anything they can shiny or not. I got done for having a gear knob with no patten go figures. Thanks Simon32 yeah the cast seems to break in the perfect spot everytime then the cleaning part sucks. You could have the wastegate mounted under the turbo but boost spikes would be a issue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...