Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys.

im about to do the r34 gtr front end on my car, now ive got the guards and ill have the front bar soon, what i wanna know is if i HAVE to change the bonnet....

i fkn absolutely luv my carbon bonnet (top secret) and cant find a reasonably priced r34 gtr one. now i believe there will be a slight gap where the mole thing would go yeah but other than that the lines will all be right yeah.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347897-r34-gtr-front-end-on-gtt/
Share on other sites

i think (but i dont know) that the Gtr bonnet is just a bit longer than the gt one, so in your case i think there'll be a gap between the gtr nose cone and your top secret gt bonnet. i think its the same width though

But u might wanna get a more knowledgable person to verify

Edited by alex182

im pretty sure that the only difference is the gtr bonnet kinda goes a lil more forward in the nose bit (like u said) its a direct bolt on, i just wanna know if there will be a massive gap or i should just get a gtr bonnet with the lil mole/lip thing on the front bit... but my bonnet was pretty exp so if i can get away with it i would do so... otherwise its another 2.5k for another top secret bonnet...

Isn't the GTR bonnet shorter? So your bonnet will then overlap the front bumper. Gap will only happen if you have a GTR bonnet with your stock front bar. GTR bonnet means GTR hinges and GTR vertical support with bonnet latch.

Edited by john-e boi

The gtr bonnet has a big gap missing in the front of it for a reason.

Try closing the gtt bonnet on a gtr bumper, good luck.

Do I need to say more??? chop the bumper and you'll be fine, don't listen to the people that are saying It'll be ok - its physically impossible with out cutting the top of the front bumper. Unless the top of the gtr bumper sits forward more than the GTT one then yes, you would be fine.. but i doubt it

Edited by R34 -_-

Above comment is correct. Gtt bonnet has the bit between the headlights as part of it, and the bumper is lower and meets this line. Whereas the gtr one stops more or less flush with the lights, and the gtr bumper has a higher part to it that fills in nicely. Also gtr gaurds mount approx 20-25mm higher in the engine bay, so I'm uncertain if this will clear a factory gtt bonnets "skeleton". I havn't tried putting a gtt bonnet on with my gtr gaurds. So you could trim bumper to suit your current bonnet, or trim bonnet to suit bumper. If you do swap to a gtr bonnet, the hinges either need replaced with gtr items, or slightly modify the gtt ones to work. Again with bonnet catch, needs replaced or modified to work with gtr bonnet. Or use bonnet pins. I don't know the legalities of doing this over there in auz. I know it's not a problem here in nz. Good luck

ok so if i get

gtr guards

gtr bumper

gtr bonnet and the hynges (wont change latch as ill use pins like i have now)

then it will all be sweet right.

i was speaking to the bloke that runs project mu and he said that the guards wont fit coz the lights are different to a gtr, im pretty sure that is untrue yeah....

Guards will fit fine Julz. Guards, bumper, bonnet, hinges that's its if you are going to use bonnet pins. Reinforcement bar will need to adjusted to fit the front bar though. Reinforcement bar bolts loosen and bar adjusted as high up to the headlights as possible.

I'm chasing a quality bonnet *hint hint Julz* Any pics? Genuine? Full carbon? PM details and price if you're going to go through with the GTR front :D

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346875-fshks-gt3037-pros-nismo-r34-gtr-carbon-bonnet/

This guy is selling a CF Nismo style GTR bonnet

Edited by john-e boi

From memory when I did my gtr conversion, spacer/bracket things had to be made up to fit the front guards. This was a few years ago though so can't fully remember. I think something to do with the way the guards bolted on around the strut tower area. Still used the GT headlights and they fit although it did look like there might be an ever so slight difference between GTR and GT headlights, nothing at all major though and wont stop things lining up.

  • 3 weeks later...

i dont know if this helps. i bought mine already converted. From my understanding the only things changed were the bonnet, front bumper, hinges, and im unsure but i presume the bonnet latch catch was changed too. the lights on mine are exenon and i believe the gtt not gtr lights, there is a small gap between lights and front gaurd barely noticable as the bumper has been pulled in to attatch to the gtt gaurds. i think if you changed to gtr gaurds this gap would not be there as the gaurd is flared.

post-60709-0-95671000-1294380325_thumb.jpg

i dont know if this helps. i bought mine already converted. From my understanding the only things changed were the bonnet, front bumper, hinges, and im unsure but i presume the bonnet latch catch was changed too. the lights on mine are exenon and i believe the gtt not gtr lights, there is a small gap between lights and front gaurd barely noticable as the bumper has been pulled in to attatch to the gtt gaurds. i think if you changed to gtr gaurds this gap would not be there as the gaurd is flared.

heheh gtr 4door :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...