Jump to content
SAU Community

New Turbo Set Up Gt35R. How Much Power Before I Should Upgrade From Stock Exhaust Manifold?

ursin

By ursin,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ursin Apprentice

ursin

Posted
Posted

i see a lot of people on here are running the stock cast exhaust manifold with a external wastegate welded on. im about to go that route but i was wondering at what power will this start to hold me back. my set up is going to be a stock internal rb25 with a gt3582r 740cc injectors and nistune. i would like to make between 400-450whp just making sure that will be possible with that manifold. i have a greddy intake manifold q45 tb. 3.5 inch straight pipe exhaust. my motor is in very good shape, great compression, everything has been inspected and it has been run for a year with the stock setup and made great power on the stock turbo but its time to upgrade. i don;t think its really necessary for me to go with a tublar manifold untill i build the motor and look to squeeze more power out of it. but since it is only in a tiny s13 400 is going to be a lot. looking to run probably around 16psi on the turbo, if i have to i may put a set of some less aggressive cams in or get my stock ones reground. any ideas people have for me feel free to throw out. i undertstand the gt35r is probably a little overkill for my power goals. but i got it for a great price and i would like to have the room to grow in the future. thanks for looking and for any help!

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Gt35 really is too big for the standard exhaust manifold, a 3076 would have been a better choice imo.

But as you said you will want more later so save up for an ETM or 6 boost manifold

ursin Apprentice

ursin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well heres the other thing. i also have one of those manifolds that i've seen like 10 different companys names on but its really just a cheap ss tublar manifold with a t3 flange and a bottom mount 38mm tial wg flange. prob is like most turbos the clearance isn;t so well. the compressor cover hits the valve cover just slightly. but im unsure about how anyone has modified it to work. it also seems that the turbo sits very high and im worried about hood clearance... if i absolutely have to i will go with the rawbrokerage manifold that just came out.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Forget the cheap stainless crap.

6-boost or ETM or whoever else is doing custom manifolds will be able to build one with plenty of bonnet clearence.

eg I had a TD07S on a 6 boost manifold on an RB25/30 and it cleared the bonnet fine in my R33

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

stock manifold is too small, most setups have issues around the 300rwkw mark.

given a GT35 will make around 360-380 on most setups, thats well above

l0WRB Mentor

l0WRB

Posted
Posted

Forget the cheap stainless crap.

6-boost or ETM or whoever else is doing custom manifolds will be able to build one with plenty of bonnet clearence.

eg I had a TD07S on a 6 boost manifold on an RB25/30 and it cleared the bonnet fine in my R33

like anything cheap if done correctly it can work.

Just dont go bolting it on and expecting it 2 do its job

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

You will probably spend more time and money stuffing around putting it on the standard manifold than if you just bit the bullet and went a decent high mount manifold...

Plus then you are not going to have restrictions on power!

Also a GT35R on a RB25 on 16psi will be a dog :(

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Better to use the stock manifold than a cheap stainless one that cracks. Run the external w/g off the turbine and save up for a 6boost or similar later. let us know how it goes with the stock manifold.

post-49463-0-02856300-1292980236_thumb.jpg

ursin Apprentice

ursin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

^^ thank you best reply so far. i guess people are missing the point. its not that i cant afford the 6 boost or a better tublar manifold i was asking which was better. i know the 35r is gonna be a dog, but its gonna be better than the stock turbo. my set up is going to be tuned with nistune and im not building the motor yet. i have too much other stuff to do to the car this year so its just not in the budget. its not like this is going to be the permanent set up just wondering which would be the best way to go about it at the moment.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

My opinion is to do the turbo swap properly.. go the decent high mount manifold and set it up for that otherwise you'll be dicking around with cooler and dump piping again when it comes time to put a proper manifold on.

ursin Apprentice

ursin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well the other thing is i can/have fabricated everything on the car i don;t care if i have to tweak a down pipe later on. and i also can modify the stock manifold for the price of the wastegate flange and pipe for it. but idk everyone is raving about aftermarket manifold i'll see what i can find, 6 boost seems hard to find in the US

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

well the other thing is i can/have fabricated everything on the car i don;t care if i have to tweak a down pipe later on. and i also can modify the stock manifold for the price of the wastegate flange and pipe for it. but idk everyone is raving about aftermarket manifold i'll see what i can find, 6 boost seems hard to find in the US

Plus you have to factor in the costs of...

New oil and water lines

New intake pipe

New dump

External Wastegate

Spacer for the turbo

Second Gasket for the spacer

Screamer pipe

Plus I would actually debate that a GT35R on 16psi would be better than a stock turbo

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

What exhaust housing do you have on the GT35?

0.63 housing will give you good response and up to 300rwkw. 0.82 will have some lag but will be great once you build the engine and decide to push things. 1.06 will be VERY laggy and not recommended.

What you could do is throw the 0.63 on while the engine is standard, then upgrade to a 0.82 when you build the engine.

Brad, I would argue for the GTX3076 over the GTX3071 as he plans to build an engine later on.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

well the other thing is i can/have fabricated everything on the car i don;t care if i have to tweak a down pipe later on. and i also can modify the stock manifold for the price of the wastegate flange and pipe for it. but idk everyone is raving about aftermarket manifold i'll see what i can find, 6 boost seems hard to find in the US

Well if you are in the US you might as well buy one from Sinco Customs (as per my pic above):

http://www.sincocustoms.co.nz/

If you tell him what car and what engine he will be able to make one that will fit for around NZ$1500. (Aussie dollar is quite strong at the moment so Sinco from New Zealand probably better value for you than 6boost from Australia).

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

Good response compared to what though a T04Z?

r33cruiser, on 28 May 2010, 10:36 PM, said:

full boost (16psi) at 3600-3800. Pulls HARD, all the way to 7500rpm.

No more than ~200rpm difference between a GT30 0.82 and a GT35 0.63 on a stock RB25.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...