Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

put the thermostat in my car......NOW my gearbox fluid gets up to temp in D!....f#$king awesome.

Thanks Alex for you help btw!

Oh and started planning the new project with Alex! :Pph34r.gif

Put my thermostat in also.... Thanks for the help with getting those hoses on..

For reference we noticed that the I had in fact plumbed my trans cooler after the fluid went through the radiator trans cooler.

Put my thermostat in also.... Thanks for the help with getting those hoses on..

For reference we noticed that the I had in fact plumbed my trans cooler after the fluid went through the radiator trans cooler.

so mine is correct then also ?

Put my thermostat in also.... Thanks for the help with getting those hoses on..

For reference we noticed that the I had in fact plumbed my trans cooler after the fluid went through the radiator trans cooler.

Also curious why you did it this way?

There was a discussion on this a while back and there were pros and cons either way, the main pro to placing it beforehand was the thermostat in the radiator getting the fluid up to temp if it was too cold... I guess if your trans cooler has a thermostat this isnt a consideration?

For my Stagea, I did my tax return today. Looks like Im going shopping! First up is intercooler methinks.

Also curious why you did it this way?

There was a discussion on this a while back and there were pros and cons either way, the main pro to placing it beforehand was the thermostat in the radiator getting the fluid up to temp if it was too cold... I guess if your trans cooler has a thermostat this isnt a consideration?

For my Stagea, I did my tax return today. Looks like Im going shopping! First up is intercooler methinks.

Did it in the most convenient location where the 2 lines run side by side to and from the trans cooler.

As we learn more about this car we realised that the standard set up has the output from the gear box going to the drivers side on the standard radiator. The Passenger side is the return lie to the transmission.

Found my P0320 error today and fixed it...miss fire is gone on idle and the power is back up again!....19psi feels like 19psi not 10psi.....and I though I had just gotten used to the power! :)

Signed up to the SAUSA track day in November, and booked the day off work.

Now to fit the shift kit, brakes, shocks, trans cooler, emanage, etc before then...

Yep, stock turbo and turbo back exhaust from AM performance.

I've been concentrating on handling and repairs first, before serious power upgrades.

Signed up to the SAUSA track day in November, and booked the day off work.

Now to fit the shift kit, brakes, shocks, trans cooler, emanage, etc before then...

Who's shift kit Ryan, who you getting to fit?

well, while performing a dirt launch the AFM blew

drove to sydney from coffs harbour with no AFM. beat that!

economy was fantastic, considering you cant rev is over 2250rpm lol

Yeah likewise.

I'd really like to get away with retaining the stock turbo - I'd like it a bit quicker - nothing that I need to upgrade the turbo for. If my turbo does shit itself though, I'll feel like I'm getting jipped if I don't get it done properly. :rofl2: Here's hoping it lasts!

Who's shift kit Ryan, who you getting to fit?

I got the trans go kit. Unless dad seriously cracks the shits, he will be fitting it with me doing the bitch jobs.

And Jase, I do plan to change the turbo eventually, but want to do all the supporting mods first. When it blows I don't see the point in replacing it with a stocker.

Found my P0320 error today and fixed it...miss fire is gone on idle and the power is back up again!....19psi feels like 19psi not 10psi.....and I though I had just gotten used to the power! :)

So what was the cause?

well, while performing a dirt launch the AFM blew

Got a bit carried away up there did you, Sebastian?cool.gif

Gave the Stagea a bath & sealed my rims; makes brake dust so much easier to get off.

Do Tell, what product, how does it work etc etc. Will work for Matte black paint?

Got a bit carried away up there did you, Sebastian?cool.gif

Lol, monkey see; monkey do...

Do Tell, what product, how does it work etc etc. Will work for Matte black paint?

Auto Glym Alloy Wheel Seal; Aerosol spray. Spray on, Wipe off. I thought it was just a "Mr Sheen" type deal; but it stays on for bloody ages.

Don't know how it would go on a Satin finish, I don't believe it would do any lasting damage. You're welcome to have a lash with mine if you like.:thumbsup:

Edited by Daleo

that shit is crazy!

well, while performing a dirt launch the AFM blew

drove to sydney from coffs harbour with no AFM. beat that!

economy was fantastic, considering you cant rev is over 2250rpm lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...