Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You getting a cat in there somewhere?

I still have the stock dump pipe which has a cat in it.

Does the M35 chuck a CEL if you have a decat pipe? Need some sort of resistor or something?

There is no wiring to the front pipe cat, no code has been thrown yet though I do still have the stock dump with cat

Edited by Ross

Im unsure if the dump has a Cat sensor, never really had a good look in there due to lack of space.

Already having a cat back in place, installing the front pipe gave a noticeable mid range power increase. Exhaust noise level is slightly up on idle and power but nothing huge.

The most notable change to the noise is the idle now has a slight "throb" to it, much like many RB engined cars.

Aren't we all funny bastards tonight?! :nyaanyaa:

I'd think you'd be better off getting rid of the cat in the dump pipe, going with a nice new dump that actually flows, and putting a high flow cat in the Kakimoto pipe?

And no Jase, no cat sensor! :banana:

Nope, no sensors after the cat, just the narrowband right after the turbo. Now you need one of my dump pipes :whistling: although the Kakimoto has a restriction at the front flange you will need to enlarge...

I can do one for $450 in stainless with heat wrap, lower gaskets and bolts, o2 bung etc. You will need to source some shorter studs or shorten the stock ones.

Let me know, im making a few up this week. :thumbsup:

I can do one for $450 in stainless with heat wrap, lower gaskets and bolts, o2 bung etc. You will need to source some shorter studs or shorten the stock ones.

Let me know, im making a few up this week. :thumbsup:

lol a few?

Nope, no sensors after the cat, just the narrowband right after the turbo. Now you need one of my dump pipes :whistling: although the Kakimoto has a restriction at the front flange you will need to enlarge...

This is excellent news!

Anyone that is running the Neo Racing oil - are you using the Platinum 10w40 or the Gold? The service interval difference is big but I don't do that many km's and will change the oil well before 40,000kms anyway.

Anyone that is running the Neo Racing oil - are you using the Platinum 10w40 or the Gold? The service interval difference is big but I don't do that many km's and will change the oil well before 40,000kms anyway.

yeah, I have. Good stuff.

40,000 is a bit optimistic though. 12-15,000 or normal driving is plausible though.

Supposedly if you change the filter at least 3-4 times during the 40,000K's it should be alright.

Me, I think I'll just stick with a "full" synthetic for $55 and change every 7,500k's.....

Supposedly if you change the filter at least 3-4 times during the 40,000K's it should be alright.

Me, I think I'll just stick with a "full" synthetic for $55 and change every 7,500k's.....

But you'd be changing the filter without changing the oil... would you really want to do that?

I think I'd rather stick with my 5000k changes, depending on what the Motul looks like when I drop it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...