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what hoses did you use. same again with the vq35?

Yeah, but G35/350Z are the same.

I used the Mishi silicon kit - http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=5319&Car_Type=G35&UID=20121225212428182.239.175.146

Kit is good. Had to cut up the top hose to fit the temp sender I'm using for the thermo fan controller, and the hose from the overflow bottle to the neck of the radiator is a little long.

If you're going to do it grab some emery paper too just to clear off any corrosion. I'll do a write up soon but I didn't get many pics this time.

can someone confirm that would this fit on the vq25 at all. http://www.ebay.com....=item4cf97b023a

Don't think so. Our fuel system has a return, which I'm pretty sure the VQ35 doesn't have.

You won't need to upgrade the fuel rail for a while though, plenty of time. I think Scotty is still using stock rail just twin Walbros and larger fuel hose?

Don't think so. Our fuel system has a return, which I'm pretty sure the VQ35 doesn't have.

You won't need to upgrade the fuel rail for a while though, plenty of time. I think Scotty is still using stock rail just twin Walbros and larger fuel hose?

thanks for the info ryan. Good to have great knowledge on topic as you have just done your cooling system as its next on my list after dump install and 3 inch exhaust.

thanks for the info ryan. Good to have great knowledge on topic as you have just done your cooling system as its next on my list after dump install and 3 inch exhaust.

No worries. If you're going to do the radiator I'd suggest deciding now if you want air conditioning or not. Because no air con will save you a lot of hassles :P

I may have found the cause of my boost spiking.

Twice now I've found the drivers side hose that connects the plenum to the standard fuel reg disconnected, and another hose loose.

I've cable tied the hose for now, guess I'd need to replace it eventually.

Actuator in. Would have been a 5 minute job if someone at Nissan had given us an extra inch of space around the actuator. I can see it'd be a nightmare job if you still had the stock intake, but Andrew at AM Performance designs all his stuff to work around bolts where possible.

Looks like the boost controller needs an adjustment so that it knows the new actuators default is 15PSI.

I'll give it a decent drive tonight and try and get that actuator into the mail tomorrow for you Scotty.

Just bypass the boost controller solenoid for now, and let me know what boost it's running without bleeding air off. Plumb it back in before the dyno, but don't drive it hard before tuning it mate, it will run much more boost up high in the revs...

I haven't got a boost gauge - well, I have the stock boost gauge, but it needs soldering up again and I don't think it goes high enough.

Just took it for a short drive after resetting the boost controller to min 15PSI, and dialling the max down slightly to 16.5PSI.

I'm not sure if it's boost spiking, or creeping, or wtf it's doing, but the EVC is reading boost hitting a peak of 20PSI - no higher.

Staring to wonder if it's a plumbing issue. Trying to work out what I changed between everything working, and it first getting tuned. Only changes I can think of were the MAP sensor being tapped into the hose going to the top of the BOV, and fixing up the hose to the stock boost sensor, which had the EVC tapped into it. Everything else is the same.

Yeah kinda wishing i bought ironpaws set not too long ago. Ah well

I've got a spare from when I smashed one. Send me a PM or grab a set of 100mm Narva spotties and mod them to fit. That's what I did.

quick question guys, previously i have gotten mechanics to do the oil changes on my car as its been in there anyway but i'm gonna do this one by myself. What i would like to know is where to get the crush washer for the sump plug from. Will they have a suitable one at supercheap or is it a genuine nissan design that only they sell at rediculous prices??

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