Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just need some help regarding my chase for power.

Ive got basic mods at the moment(fmic, and exhaust lol). I want to run a gt3076r but internally gated and on the standard manifold to keep it looking stockish.

Anyway, I need to know what else I will need. Ive done all my reading but I'm stumped on injectors.

Are 550cc top feeds enough? Ive already got a bosch 040 and a nismo fuel regulator. I just need injectors. Should I go 740's? Does brand matter? I see Siemens and this other brand that starts with D going fairly cheap.

Its on an Rb25 motor. Ive found the turbo I want(direct bolt into stock position). Ive set aside about 2.5k for the turbo, injectors and the tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348743-3076r-for-270rwkw/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

injectors need to be side feed for rb25. 555s will be enough for 270rwkw but if you can get decent 740s for the same/similar price you might aswell get them, incase you ever go e85.

you'll be sturggling to do it all properly for 2.5k

The turbo I'm getting for $1100.

Braided lines apparently $75 http://cgi.ebay.com....=item4155198a0e

Injectors about $700

Nistune about $700

T3 gasket and 5 bolt gasket about $60

Stud kit for turbo about $100

Its just a tad bit over $2500.

Its hard to find GT3071's. I could always get a rebuild with GT3071 internals as my old turbo was the same... Too many options and seriously when you look at all the options it just confuses me.

The injectors I found are 550cc top feed nismos so I would need a new rail...

Ive removed and replaced my turbo on my old car a couple times. Ive removed and installed the fuel rail my self. Only thing I haven't done was install the fuel pump but there are guides for that. I think I can do the physical/mechanical work my self. I would have someone with me giving me a hand and probably also knows what they're doing so we can do it right.

Denso are the ones I have heard off, pretty cheap too.

Edited by SargeRX8

what about oil drain, 10mm spacer, longer studs, actuator and bracket, dump pipe, intake/cooler piping changes?

then theres oil, filter, coolant etc that you'd change at the same time, it all adds up

I wouldn't need the spacer, well thats what I was told, as the turbo is has a different exhaust housing which will make it fit directly onto the rb25 without fouling against the rocker covers. I have factored those in as worst case. I am going to need an actuator but someone told me I can use the actuator off my skyline and just use the boost controller to take care of the extra boost. The cooler piping is my only concern. I see people running silicone bends and all this stuff, I'd really prefer to get something fabricated. I was quoted about $60 - $100 for the bends made from aluminum.

Ive got all the oils and coolants already(I stock up). Whats the go with the oil drain? The standard one wont bolt onto the new turbo? They average about $8 - $30 over on eBay. I can always pick up some parts 2nd hand.

what about oil drain, 10mm spacer, longer studs, actuator and bracket, dump pipe, intake/cooler piping changes?

then theres oil, filter, coolant etc that you'd change at the same time, it all adds up

Exactly... If you have guesstimated it will be $2500 it's going to cost you $5000

I know you won't believe me, but trust me it will :(

what housing is it? none of the garrett ones clear.

cant remember what the standard actuator bracket is like but im pretty sure you cant use it

standard oil drain wont bolt up, bolt spacing is different. you need to buy a pipe/flange to suit and make up the rest of the drain out of whatever you can (stock block fitting with new high temp hose would be best).

The turbo I'm getting for $1100.

Braided lines apparently $75 http://cgi.ebay.com....=item4155198a0e

Injectors about $700

Nistune about $700

T3 gasket and 5 bolt gasket about $60

Stud kit for turbo about $100

Your stats say you have an R33 - would think you'll need more than $700 budgeted here, given you'll need to either get an R32 or Z32 ECU, have nistune chip fitted to that, and then the cost of tuning it ..

Exactly... If you have guesstimated it will be $2500 it's going to cost you $5000

I know you won't believe me, but trust me it will :(

I'm getting a little scared now :( I'm hoping I can save money on the installation side...

what housing is it? none of the garrett ones clear.

cant remember what the standard actuator bracket is like but im pretty sure you cant use it

standard oil drain wont bolt up, bolt spacing is different. you need to buy a pipe/flange to suit and make up the rest of the drain out of whatever you can (stock block fitting with new high temp hose would be best).

I was told its an AVO housing to suit RB20/25 motors. I should be able to get the necessary parts. Its quite lucky that I posted here, I kind of had my arse uncovered abit...

Your stats say you have an R33 - would think you'll need more than $700 budgeted here, given you'll need to either get an R32 or Z32 ECU, have nistune chip fitted to that, and then the cost of tuning it ..

Shit are you serious? Damnit f**k, I thought it was going to be compatible. Then Ill use a PFC or get a quote for an r32 ecu with the necessary mods to make it work on the r33 + tune. Shit, its gonna add up..

If someone buys my RB25det gearbox it would put $1000 in my pocket :) Or I am willing to trade the box for parts I can use.

450cc S15 injectors, with remap + piggyback, gt3076r internal wastegate .73 AR ($2250 from Adelaide turbo services), auto makes comfortable 250awkw

550cc injectors would be fine for your 270rwkw mark, 290+ would be the happypants zone

Definitely under budgeting and poor part selection.

To start with, do not buy top feed injectors with intention to do an AM rail. This only works when using a Greddy style forward facing plenum. The stock plenum will foul top feed injectors. You will need side feeds OR to highflow your stock items as 10WRB has said.

Contact CEF11E on this forum regarding highflowing your injectors, he knows his work.

As for how to do the job and how to budget for it.. I would do it like this:

A GCG 3076 or 3071 kit for $2950. The turbo on its own is normally about $1700 new, the other $1200 is towards all your fittings such as lines and spacers, new studs etc. The kit also comes with a dump pipe that meets with the stock position front pipe. This kit comes with the CORRECT GARRET .82 turbine housing. The kit you are describing with a turbo for $1100 would have no rear housing, and an AVO housing is roughly $700. The AVO housing will have difficulty holding the right amount of boost and will struggle to make the power this turbo is capable of (as stated 250rwkw instead of the 300 its capable of). The GCG kit comes with THE RIGHT GEAR and is reasonably priced.

Link:

http://gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=538&category_id=56&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

From here you will need the following:

Intake pipe custom made $200 (reasonable expected cost)

Front pipe (if you dont have one already - one piece front and dump will need to be replaced if you have this) $300

Highflow cat (if you dont have already) $400

Intercooler pipes will meet up as the GCG kit comes with the silicon bend

The turbo will now be on the car and running. Now you will need:

Injectors $150-300 to highflow, $400-1200 to purchase sidefeeds (700+cc recommended)

ECU I would go a toshi remap $700ish to be safe - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/210097-power-fc-and-remap-ecu-road-tune-and-dyno-tune-available-in-sydneysending-to-other-state-and-over-seas-also-abailable-now/

Z32 AFM $300 if you shop around BNEW and then a R31 or VL AFM plug from pick and dont pay less (aka pick and pocket)

So theres your round $5000 or more. By the time you get a few extra niggly bits here and there too, its well and truly over that amount.

Another thing to note, if you opt to purchase the turbo elsewhere (not liking the $2950 price tag from GCG) prepare for the costs to add up very quickly when trying to source all the bits. You can get the lines and silicon bend sorted for around $300 on ebay, however the dump pipe will cost atleast $500 to $1000 depending on who you have make it for you and at what quality. The GCG kit is a reasonable price, do not overlook it.

If you really are tight on money, consider this option:

Hypergear hiflow (can get one made to do 270rwkw) $900-1200

Hiflow injectors $300

Toshi remap $700

Z32 AFM $300

One piece front and dump $179 from justjap (if you dont have one already)

Cat $200 (3" ceramic catco from justjap)

Theres $3000 tops and you will get your 270rwkw. It will not be the SAME 270rwkw, it will have different delivery and the debate about which is better still rages, however it will certainly equate to a decent and FAST car.

I am pretty sure this is the 4th time I have written such a post.. Maybe a guide is in order for the turbo FAQ section (mods let me know if you want this done - im happy to write something up with links and results).

I have a 3076 internally gated smallest rear housing that was supposed to bolt directly up (btw it didn't haha) and all the parts (no labour) for that was just under 3k and I already had an microtech ECU, nismo 740cc injectors, nippon denso fuel pump but i also have a greddy plenum and 90mm TB on a R33 S1 RB25DET.

I only managed to have the car for about 2 days before it blew up again (builder didn't check the clearance on the pistons for the oil squirters lucky I didn't give it all the time I had it :teehee:), but from memory i had ~245rwkw @ 12-13psi (guess at most...it's been awhile) on a safe run in tune and I was aiming for 270rwkw all day everyday.

The turbo I had before was a high flow stock turbo (227rwkw @ 18psi...had the car running for longer then so I can remember >_<) and "felt" virtually the same if not a little later on the 3076.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
×
×
  • Create New...