Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

my new r32gtr has a thin film of black soot which does come off with polish but it is very stubborn...is there a chemical i can get to remove this stuff?

here is a pic to give u an idea of the buildup, mainly around the top of the firewall (above the engine)

regards

marko

post-8728-0-72074300-1294117891_thumb.jpg

Edited by Marko R1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349155-best-way-to-clean-an-engine-bay/
Share on other sites

Try spraying with trigger bottle - truck wash detergent 50/50 with water , scrub with wheel/rim brush let soak for 1 hour then gentle wash of areas affected only ,

whatever you do try not to wet your intake filters or any electrics .thumbsup.gif

what works best for me is a can of crc heavy duty parts and throttle body cleaner. The dirt literally just glides straight off!

^ ^ ^ Yes, preceded by Kenco Truck degreaser &/or followed by Upper Engine Cleaner by Subaru...

But...

But...

Your car is red, and some reds can change colour slightly by using harsh solvents.

So I'd tend to do a test-wipe first eh?

ok - i know that throttle body cleaner is incredibly strong when it took all the grime off my throttle bodies when i had them out, makes your fingers feel tingly as well which cant be good lol

i'll try this & that kenco degreaser

I would be very interested to know how u end up Marko.

I have the same problem with my gtr, I attempted using a small spot of WD40 then rincing with soapy water and rubbing over with a polish (washed the wd40 off quite quickly).

Appeared to work quite well, however i can see this being quite time consuming. Besides its quite difficult to get a cloth to some of the panels that are quite dirty in mine.

Also dont like the idea of spraying WD40 all over my paintwork.

Kenco Degreaser is fantastic, I used it for my engine bay a few months ago. Spray on leave for 15 mins and give it a bit of a scrub with a wheel brush. Pretty much everything came off. More stubborn spots got more degreaser and a longer soak time. :thumbsup:

Hey mate,

I just used a degreaser and a high pressure spray (u can go to the pay and spray at a petrol station if u dont have a high pressure unit)

Simple Green is highly recommended by the guys at final inspection, but I've never tried it before, I just used up some cheaper stuff myself really

Jif can scrape away grime > but it leaves scratches. If you rub it on a piece of glass mirror you'll see it straight away due to its abrasives.

Kenco Truck Degreaser won't scratch.

Carbie cleaner or Upper engine cleaner doesn't have abrasives either, but it strips away any 'Clear'.

I have no doubt that Jif will help restore any discoloured white, red or any other colour engine bay.

After all, even Glym Paint Restorer will have 'cutting compound' in it.

Any abrasive cutting compound on paint needs to be followed up by a very fine polish, and that can be followed up by wax, and then by a sealer.

Repeated use of cutting compound on paint and...

In your case, it was wise to apply polish straight after, Brad.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...