Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Build

Robi33

By Robi33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Robi33 Rising Star

Robi33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Well, I've decided that this year I'm going to stop 'talking' about doing something to my R33 and actually 'do' something to it... So first is first, the engine. I've been told, but I'm not 100% positive that it would work...

The plan so far is...

40 thou oversized pistons

'H' Beam rods

R33 RB26 crankshaft

JUN oil pump

New Water pump

Bigger oil sump

Garrett GT35/40

Front-Facing plenium

Bigger throttle body

Headwork to suit with decent size cams.

That's the basics so far... I've been told and read that this plan should work, however I've also been told and read online that the RB26 crank doesn't fit. Any help would be awesome. I'm not after Horsepower Hero status, I just want a gutsy road car I can have fun on the track with.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/
Share on other sites
75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

what about just do the turbo, ECU, injectors, fuel pump, wait for the engine to break and then rebuild???

I wouldnt worry about using a 26 crank, if your not after horsepower hero status...

Why do you want a bigger throttle body?

bigger oil sump, do you have an oil cooler as yet?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5611980
Share on other sites
Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Well, I've decided that this year I'm going to stop 'talking' about doing something to my R33 and actually 'do' something to it... So first is first, the engine. I've been told, but I'm not 100% positive that it would work...

The plan so far is...

40 thou oversized pistons

'H' Beam rods

R33 RB26 crankshaft

JUN oil pump - Check out the Nitto Oil Pump, cheaper and flows the same or better then the Jun, and it's Australian.

New Water pump

Bigger oil sump

Garrett GT35/40

Front-Facing plenium

Bigger throttle body

Headwork to suit with decent size cams.

That's the basics so far... I've been told and read that this plan should work, however I've also been told and read online that the RB26 crank doesn't fit. Any help would be awesome. I'm not after Horsepower Hero status, I just want a gutsy road car I can have fun on the track with.

Thanks.

Yes it does fit, I am going down the same path later this year. I have a R34 GTR crank, and I need to buy RB26 pistons (going 20 thou, 86.5mm) and some forged con rods. The RB25 and RB26 blocks are very similar, the major difference is the stroke of the RB26 over the RB25.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5612038
Share on other sites
Robi33 Rising Star

Robi33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

At the moment the only things the ol'girl has is a 3 inch exhaust from the cat-back, boost 'T', coilovers and mags... I only put the coilovers and mags on it. I'm buying a seperate engine and everything I need in the next few months. I just want a safe-going, gutsy engine.

Thanks for the information, Aberax. Is there anything specific I need to do to make it all work out, crank wise?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5612187
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Only important if you need them - plenty have not required them for over 350rwkw.

Rob - what is the budget/plan/use of the car etc?

A 3540 isn't the best choice for a street car in all honesty, no do you need to spend the extra on rods etc.

The parts list is a bit all over the place. Lots of stuff you need isn't on there, lots of stuff you don't need is...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5612214
Share on other sites
lachlanw Veteran

lachlanw

Posted
Posted

2.6 and 2.5 blocks are the same . thats why rb25det blocks have 2 oil feed lugs cast into them

rb26 has longer stroke and lower piston crown height

so if your using a 26 crank you need pistons for a 26

con rods are same dimesion

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5612218
Share on other sites
Robi33 Rising Star

Robi33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The plan is to have a nice cruiser that I can go to the track and thrash around without worrying a lot about something major to go faulty. That's why I want to strengthen as much as I can. I plan on working the heads and having stronger valves and springs too. 35/40 just seemed to be a good choice for the track/strip but I'm open for suggestions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5612403
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Rob, Check these links out

SAU Topic - Garrett GTX Turbos

Garrett Website - GTX3076

There relatively new but look like a good thing. I just think you will be disapointed with the 35/40 in comparison to something like these. But hey its up to you.

If your not doing anything tomorrow give me a txt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5612445
Share on other sites
bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

The results from the GTX so far have not proved they are better at all... More power but more lag; who would have thought?!

Go with what is proven to work you don't need expensive fancy parts to go fast.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5612486
Share on other sites
DR 32R Rising Star

DR 32R

Posted
Posted (edited)

I think your parts list is good, you need rb26 pistons with the rb26 crank. I would get premium valve springs supertec/tomei.The nitto pump is fine. Probably better than the Jun.

Edited by WHITE gtt
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5612511
Share on other sites
r33cruiser Grand Master

r33cruiser

Posted
Posted (edited)

Only important if you need them - plenty have not required them for over 350rwkw.

Rob - what is the budget/plan/use of the car etc?

A 3540 isn't the best choice for a street car in all honesty, no do you need to spend the extra on rods etc.

The parts list is a bit all over the place. Lots of stuff you need isn't on there, lots of stuff you don't need is...

This! What is your budget? Your looking at an easy 10-15k plus the headwork and parts for the head.

So let's say 20k-ish plus because you have to buy all the parts including the turbo. Still keen?

Edited by r33cruiser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5613249
Share on other sites
Aberax Grand Master

Aberax

Posted
Posted

At the moment the only things the ol'girl has is a 3 inch exhaust from the cat-back, boost 'T', coilovers and mags... I only put the coilovers and mags on it. I'm buying a seperate engine and everything I need in the next few months. I just want a safe-going, gutsy engine.

Thanks for the information, Aberax. Is there anything specific I need to do to make it all work out, crank wise?

Have everything machined, cleaned and balanced correctly. Have your block decked, bored, honed, also have the main tunnel machined, good bearings ACL (I am going 20 Thou RB25 ACL Bearings), acid dipped. Get the Crank grub-screwed, cleaned and balanced along with your conrods and pistons (as they all are apart of the rotating mass). Make sure the clearances for rings, piston to bore are within tolerances, bearing crush is within aswell.

Crank, depending on how big the oil drive is, you may want to get a oil collar installed too. Also look into doing some oil control too.

A engine build is never really "cheap", I have done a rough calculation for my build, parts alone are around the $10k mark, then machine shop cost on top.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5613402
Share on other sites
Robi33 Rising Star

Robi33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Money isn't a problem for me at all. The Fiance and I have an agreement that we're not getting married until my car is done... So she is helping me out as much as she can too, haha. ;)

Thanks guys, this means a lot. I'll make sure I keep updating when I start working on it. Keep you guys in-check with the progress. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5613537
Share on other sites
r33cruiser Grand Master

r33cruiser

Posted
Posted

Money isn't a problem for me at all. The Fiance and I have an agreement that we're not getting married until my car is done... So she is helping me out as much as she can too, haha. ;)

Thanks guys, this means a lot. I'll make sure I keep updating when I start working on it. Keep you guys in-check with the progress. :)

Lol then Godspeed buddy.

Make a project thread ;)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/#findComment-5613878
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...