Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6af5e5eb.jpg

Is that a raised deck OS30 or hi-deck rb28, or an RB30 ? The cam covers look suspisious close to the strut tower brace.

The comment made about RB29's Vcam setup in that thead seemed to indicate a custom v-cam system, not a hks kit? Having never seen it though I can only go on what other misinformation is out there...

Like the rumor that Paul of Red-R racing is developing a vcam style arrangement...

The comment made about RB29's Vcam setup in that thead seemed to indicate a custom v-cam system, not a hks kit? Having never seen it though I can only go on what other misinformation is out there...

Correct, it was not the HKS version.

Dont HKS have 3 different cam profiles? Which one would be the ideal one for a -5 setup?

Matt has the smallest version.... But then HKS recommend for a RS/TO4Z setup the biggest duration and lift setup in the V-Cam they half....

Is that a raised deck OS30 or hi-deck rb28, or an RB30 ? The cam covers look suspisious close to the strut tower brace.

The comment made about RB29's Vcam setup in that thead seemed to indicate a custom v-cam system, not a hks kit? Having never seen it though I can only go on what other misinformation is out there...

Like the rumor that Paul of Red-R racing is developing a vcam style arrangement...

Nope its a HKS 2.8.

Probably just the angle of the photo I took.

I know the owner of the car in Japan and he has mint 32,33,this 34 and another and a 35.

Too much coin !!

well....i am at the moment removing my rear housing from my gt4094r and sending it to the states to have a different type of quick spool valve machined into it. check the quick spool valve thread on here for pics..ifi dont like that then will sell and deffo fit twin 2860,s ....

Ill go from the start

Nismo AFM's

ARC Duel entry 105 mm cooler

Nismo plenum

Ported factory manifolds

GT RS's

HKS split dumps

HKS Front pipes (twin 70 mm into 85 mm)

3.5 'cat'

Kakimoto Full mega N1 catback.

hey paul - i finally read your thread & there is a lot information & opinions in here...

my setup is similar although i have:

stock intake plenum

-10 turbos (apparently dont makes as much as power as hks items lol)

xforce dumps

hks super drager exhaust (steps from 3.25", 3.5" then 3.75" at the rear diff)

z32 afms

100mm hks exhaust

ported exhaust manifolds

3ltr bottom end (wont necessarily give you more peak power, torque yes)

...the only thing i could pick which ive raised with you in the past & DOES make a massive difference: is your head ported? this will give you up to 50awkw gain when you are playing in the 400kw range (as confirmed by worksops i use)

i personally wouldn't go changing dumps & exhaust as mine is similar & makes 405awkw (450rwkw) @ 23psi. you want more midrange so yes go with -5s BUT before u do that, pick the brain of that other dyno tuner that i suggested (name disclosed as im not here to sledge workshops).

going to smaller cams - no way! ive had this discussion with crd, red r racing & rips racing many times - unless these workshops dont know what they're talking about & smoke bongs, leave your cams in there (im running 280's @ 10.5mm lift)

work with what you have otherwise your gtr will is going to send you broke (like the most of us lol)

go forth :)

hey paul - i finally read your thread & there is a lot information & opinions in here...

my setup is similar although i have:

stock intake plenum

-10 turbos (apparently dont makes as much as power as hks items lol)

xforce dumps

hks super drager exhaust (steps from 3.25", 3.5" then 3.75" at the rear diff)

z32 afms

100mm hks exhaust

ported exhaust manifolds

3ltr bottom end (wont necessarily give you more peak power, torque yes)

...the only thing i could pick which ive raised with you in the past & DOES make a massive difference: is your head ported? this will give you up to 50awkw gain when you are playing in the 400kw range (as confirmed by worksops i use)

i personally wouldn't go changing dumps & exhaust as mine is similar & makes 405awkw (450rwkw) @ 23psi. you want more midrange so yes go with -5s BUT before u do that, pick the brain of that other dyno tuner that i suggested (name disclosed as im not here to sledge workshops).

going to smaller cams - no way! ive had this discussion with crd, red r racing & rips racing many times - unless these workshops dont know what they're talking about & smoke bongs, leave your cams in there (im running 280's @ 10.5mm lift)

work with what you have otherwise your gtr will is going to send you broke (like the most of us lol)

go forth :)

Marko,

Head is ported.... how good of a job is anyones guess. Does it match the turbo's and cams? I have NFI

Cams as Ash has said a very touchy subject.

Tangomatt used baby cams (Ok he had vcam but meh)

Marcus used 264's @ 9.7 and got a mega result

I am using 270's @ 10.25 and it comes on later and makes less grunt.

Gav is using 272's (i think)

Ah we could go back and forth about this.

I also use 264 9.7

15psi @4000rpm made 489rwkw on E85 @ 1.8bar GTRS's

side pipes 3" x2

8.55:1

89mm bore

Another motor we built

more head porting than mine

BP98 with 10% methanol

264 9.7 15psi@3600rpm

614kw at the engine 22psi

-10's

side pipes 3" x2

8.7:1

89mm bore

Edited by BoostdR

I actually feel -10s will flow more. The anti-surge comp cover reduces efficiency to bring boost on slower to reduce surge. For a 3ltr I would go the garretts.

As for cams we went with what works. Used to use JUN 272's and ordered 264 by mistake. The results were more power everywhere. For under 400kw I would go mines shorepro. 252 10mm or whatever they are.....

I had the Gibson cams dialed. I can't remember exactley what they were. Something like 278 292 10.5 staggered but I think that wasn't at advertised duration. Will have to dig up the sheet for you guys. Base circle was 1mm under aswell.

I actually feel -10s will flow more. The anti-surge comp cover reduces efficiency to bring boost on slower to reduce surge. For a 3ltr I would go the garretts.

As for cams we went with what works. Used to use JUN 272's and ordered 264 by mistake. The results were more power everywhere. For under 400kw I would go mines shorepro. 252 10mm or whatever they are.....

I had the Gibson cams dialed. I can't remember exactley what they were. Something like 278 292 10.5 staggered but I think that wasn't at advertised duration. Will have to dig up the sheet for you guys. Base circle was 1mm under aswell.

I was looking at the 260's @ 10.8mm. Thoughts?

The Gibson cams are HUUGE. I wonder why they went for such huge duration?

I was looking at the 260's @ 10.8mm. Thoughts?

The Gibson cams are HUUGE. I wonder why they went for such huge duration?

gibson used big cams because they work - unless gibson was smoking the same stuff as jim souvas & rob ward :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All trim back in wired running driving. Few things to follow up on but not far off the return to the road. att.6HN4wP38LTIOISkhA8eACoBFqzfgQMahZPLA8ut0pqE.mp4 att.w2q0ux2PGuqgQTj2Os13cNHQtqcSEcCAhD_CAXy_IQM.mp4
    • The trouble with phone apps is that they really do not know the sensitivity of the mic on each specific phone, whether there is some sort of cover or skin that can change that, etc etc. So the readings off them are not calibrated. You certainly couldn't be sure that you were even within 3 dB. I have the same app on two (actually more than that) different phones/tablets and the readings in the same room at the same time are never the same. I don't mind the apps - they are as useful as a dyno - if you're testing for delta from thing1 to thing2. But not to try to generate some sort of absolute value.
    • I'm gonna use the "Sound Meter" app from the Google Play Store and as close as I can bother to these procedures: 4. TEST METHOD FOR ALL VEHICLES EXCEPT PRE ADR83 IN-SERVICE GOODS VEHICLES AND OMNIBUSES 4.1 Microphone position 4.1.1 The microphone shall be directed towards the orifice of the exhaust outlet and shall be supported by a tripod or similar device not providing excessive acoustic reflection. The general requirements for positioning microphones are shown in the Appendix. 4.1.2 The nominal axis of maximum sensitivity of the microphone shall be substantially parallel to the test site surface and shall make an angle of 45 degrees ±10 degrees with the principal direction of gas flow from the exhaust. 4.1.3 In selecting the 45 degree alignment from the outlet of a motor vehicle fitted with two or more outlets, only the angle resulting in the microphone being farthest from any other outlet must be used. National Stationary Exhaust Noise Test Procedures for In-Service Motor Vehicles Page 3 4.1.4 The height of the microphone above the test site surface shall be equal to that of the orifice of the exhaust outlet ±25mm but shall not be less than 200mm above the test site surface. 4.1.5 The distance of the microphone from the exhaust outlet orifice shall be 500mm±25mm. 4.1.6 [Relates to vertical exhaust outlets] 4.1.7 For vehicles fitted with one exhaust outlet the microphone shall be placed so that the greatest possible distance is achieved between it and the vehicle. 4.1.8 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] 4.1.9 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] TLDR: 200mm off ground 45 degree angle relative to exhaust flow 500mm from tailpipe exit. (I probably won't use a tripod) Here's a photo, cause I read the instructions wrong myself.
    • No ABS, no TCS, no airbags, no cruise control, no lane departure assist, no emergency brake assist, no orange lights in the mirrors (continuously annoying me in multi-lane traffic), no stupid rear view camera. I am the one responsible for where my car goes and how it does it.
    • Cheapest Jaycar one is only $65.
×
×
  • Create New...