Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Tyre Would You Guys Go With?

Penfold
 Share

Recommended Posts

Penfold Rising Star

Penfold

Posted
Posted

Hi,

Just rang around for quotes for fronts for my Skyline - 255/40/17's in Bundaberg. Dont really feel like mucking around too much - had a puncture.

These are the quotes I was given from different places:

Maxxis MAZ4-S @ $232.00 /tyre

Nankank NS2 @ $230.00 / tyre

Federal 595 @ $220.00 / tyre

Falken ZE912 @ $247.00 / tyre

What would you guys go with?

Cheers,

Pen

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350020-which-tyre-would-you-guys-go-with/
Share on other sites
queensalnd Contributor

queensalnd

Posted
Posted

^agree 595's do get a bit NOISY especially when worn down a bit, but it's not a real big drama. But if possible i would go kUHMO KU 31's. Also for the size of Bundy there is a lot of tyre shops which should be in your favour when it comes to pricing.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

Out of those 4 the Maxxis.

But......

Sumitomo Z3, should be about that price. At Jax Quickfit, I'm on my 2nd set (in 18s now). They are WAY better than any tyre you listed above.

I've had the Nankang, Federals and older cheap Falkens in that exact size. I think the Nankangs were slightly better than the Federals. Falkens about equal to Federals but stiffer sidewalls.

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

no actually goto option1garage here in the traders section get a quote for 595rs-r and I think you'll be surprised, the delivered price to my place in NSW was almost the same as the prices your quoting...

and thats a street semi...!!!!!

Spark911 Community Regular

Spark911

Posted
Posted

ive got 235/40/18 federal 595's on the front of my 34...not bad for grip and they last quite a while. but the road noise generated from them is fkn shit. hope your exhaust+induction is extra loud otherwise the road noise will just piss you off.

go the kuhmo's. ive had several sets in different ranges (KU31, KU36) and they are quite good.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted (edited)

I reckon thats a tad expensive for the nangkangs... theyre ok though wear well and have predictable grip.

but at those prices though Id go the federal

yeah i got nankangs well under 200( but i know a guy)..Damn good tyre for the cash I paid, very predictable,grippy and stiff sidewalls, great in the dry, bit sketchy in the wet though, but when its wet im in no hurry anyway.

An odd thing to note though a kuhmo 235/45 or maxxis will look fatter than a 255/40 nankang, they are very slim tyres, but good

Most shops Ive spoken to have said they are better than ferals

Kuhmos are great as well wet or dry , i found them to be alot softer compound than the nankangs which is good for comfort..

Id be going nankangs or maxxis out of those u mentioned though, aslk nicely they may drop 20$ off too. ;)

Edited by Arthur T3
central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

falken 452's are a good tyre at around $300 average each. Most sites give them a 4.5/5 overall for street tyre and they're designed for wet weather use :)

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

ok NS2s will do cause that a slightly better price for them, but do you realise when I said option1garage did good prices on Federal 595 did you see I said 595rs-r not just std road tyre the street semi version...

for me I run 255 S drives on the front and 255 A050 or 595rs-r on the rear...

max grip

REMANIS Contributor

REMANIS

Posted
Posted

ok NS2s will do cause that a slightly better price for them, but do you realise when I said option1garage did good prices on Federal 595 did you see I said 595rs-r not just std road tyre the street semi version...

for me I run 255 S drives on the front and 255 A050 or 595rs-r on the rear...

max grip

Ive been sponsored buy Federal Tyres for bit over a year now but for around three years before that its all i will drive on man. The RS-R is and excellent choice for the street car come track weekender!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...