Jump to content
SAU Community

Diagoins Of A Fauly Coil Pack

Guest trikdoutbuketofshit

By Guest trikdoutbuketofshit,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest trikdoutvl

Guest trikdoutvl

Posted
Posted

Ok so motorvation is 2 days away and my car decides to sound like a wrx again. exact same thing that happened last year. It was a coil pack. So my question is how do you diagions a fkd a coil pack???? The best way I can describe it is the motor sounds like a wrx and it has fk all power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350032-diagoins-of-a-fauly-coil-pack/
Share on other sites
NISMOGTT Collaborator

NISMOGTT

Posted
Posted

Ok so motorvation is 2 days away and my car decides to sound like a wrx again. exact same thing that happened last year. It was a coil pack. So my question is how do you diagions a fkd a coil pack???? The best way I can describe it is the motor sounds like a wrx and it has fk all power.

sounds like a wrx and no power... you sure you did not get in a wrx :P

you can visually inspect by running your finger nail around it and see if there is any hair line fracture...

you can do the old turn the car over with the coil pack out and see if any spark excapes...

also think you can check the resistance and make sure all are even...

only other way is to start the car with one off at a time and see which one made no difference (ie you will be running on 5 cylinders with one buggered and as you remove working ones you should go to 4 running cylinders)..

autoworx Rising Star

autoworx

Posted
Posted

resistance and visual damage does not always mean much , i have seen many that look in perfect condition , measure fine and still die under load

also they often spark at idle but break down under full load

best way to tell is to get a good coil and swap them out one by one and test under load

did you replace all the coil packs with something decent like splitfires last time or did you just replace the 1 with a stock one ?

if so get some splitfires and never worry about it again

snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted

if the problem is present on idle just unplug the coilpacks 1 by 1, whichever is the one that doesnt make a difference to how it runs is obviously the dud one.

swap that over to another cylinder and see if the problem has carried over to that cylinder. if it does then that means the coilpack is screwed.

if the problem is still in that cylinder, that means your problem is elsewhere

  • Like 1
lunjiaow Community Regular

lunjiaow

Posted
Posted

Should be careful when checking coilpacks. the way Snozzle mentioned, may blow the coilpack driver (the box that sits at the end of the head).

If you can get to the injectors, diconnect them one at a time to see which cylinder it is. Much safer option unless you know how to check the coilpacks properly.

I would recommend splitfires, never failed on me once with 1.1 gapping and lots of boost.

Wogan Proficient

Wogan

Posted
Posted

also don't jump to the coilpacks answer whenever you have a missfiring problem... there are many other possible causes as anything to do with fuel / timing / spark can cause symptoms similar to coilpacks..

personally i've had 3 different occasions when my car was missing... each time the problem was not the coilpacks, despite everyone on the forums suggesting they were.

(mine turned out to be the CAS, then the AFM and then a sticky valve... each were 6 months to a year apart)

Pr0j3kt_Supra Contributor

Pr0j3kt_Supra

Posted
Posted

also u didnt happen to wash ur engine bay recently? water in the spark plug wells.... coincidently it took 2 days after i washed my engine before misfiring occured and only to find out it was water after a new set of coils had arrive ...Doh!

  • 7 months later...
  • 7 years later...
FedBpy2018 Contributor

FedBpy2018

Posted
Posted

I started my car last night to visually check my coil packs due to a surging issue, im glade i did, even at idle i could see the spark jumping out onto the motor, so she is gunna sit until I get my new ones, my general rule of thumb is if 1 is on the way out replace the lot, for example if a shockie needs replacement i do all 4 at once

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...