Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea M35 Series 1 Arx (2002) Secret Compartments

samuri

By samuri,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

samuri Rising Star

samuri

Posted
Posted

I read there was a compartment at the rear of the wagon to hold some sort of hyraullic fluid. Is this true for my model, as I cant locate anything.

I can locate compartments on either side

Do any of the stageas have hydraulic suspension?

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Behind the RHS cubbyhole in the load area there is a reservoir for the ATESSA system.

You have to remove the cover, and grab the lip of the plastic insert and pull (fairly forcefully) and it will pop out revealing the reservoir inside the rear quarter panel.

The first time I pulled mine out, I thought I was going to break it, then it just popped free.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Checked Aaron's attessa reservoir last night, it was black. Looks like I have to work out how to replace the fluid and bleed it. Any ideas?

I guess I have to suck out what I can then bleed it from the nipple on the transfer case, any idea how to get the pump to run continuously?

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Checked Aaron's attessa reservoir last night, it was black. Looks like I have to work out how to replace the fluid and bleed it. Any ideas?

I guess I have to suck out what I can then bleed it from the nipple on the transfer case, any idea how to get the pump to run continuously?

I wonder if it uses a pressure switch and an accumulator to maintain pressure in the system? I'm pretty sure this is how the r33GTR does it, and when the accumulator dies, the pump switches on and off constantly to maintain system pressure.

If you draw the dirty fluid out of the reservoir, replace with clean, then start the engine, the pump should start to charge the system with pressure.

If you open the bleed valve, the system may start to lose pressure and the pressure switch should activate the pump.

If this happens, you might be able to crack the bleed nipple with a length of hose to drain and slowly bleed the system until you are getting clean fluid, while someone is watching the reservoir level, and topping as required.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Sounds reasonable, just changing the fluid in the reservoir would be a good start anyway. Normally the dealer would switch the pump on with the consult 3 I guess.

Changed the transfer fluid yesterday, Aaron typed up a how to. :)

http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=139

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

will probably be similar to c34's

look for a plug under the dash, 1 wire in 1 out possibly green

unplugging that and turning the ignition will keep the motor running

you can also take the fitting out of the back of the transfer case and run the motor, this will drain the fluid faster

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted (edited)

thats strange because if i unplug it and drive normally the 4wd light comes on

if you unplug it and pump the brake pedal 5 times then you get in rwd mode (for c34's this is, but i doubt m35's are much different)

m35 should be using a similar system (attessa-ets)

take note of the "air evacuator connector"

post-51118-0-78929300-1295165455_thumb.jpg

Edited by pipster11
Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

thats strange because if i unplug it and drive normally the 4wd light comes on

if you unplug it and pump the brake pedal 5 times then you get in rwd mode (for c34's this is, but i doubt m35's are much different)

m35 should be using a similar system (attessa-ets)

take note of the "air evacuator connector"

It's worth a look but normally there's some annoying reason why what works on a c34 simply won't work on an M35...pinch.gif

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

well you guys have a super crazy motor ecu but the awd system sounds very similar so i don't think the control of it would be much different

Except me... over here in electric clutch land!!!:happy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...