Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My bog stock, n/a Skyline just wiped the floor with a pulsar q running an SR20 with full exhaust + probably other stuff.

I've driven an SR20 powered Pulsar. It was bleh.

Dunno if the turbo ones are much better...

ive driven my brothers 180sx type x heaps of times. really different to driving my r34. doesnt have as much low down power as a 25 turbo, but they're a lot lighter and handle really well. i find them a lot of fun to drive. depending what car ur getting out of, u might find it a bit more uncomfortable and basic.

heaps fun and zippy car to drive and would definately get an s13 again if one came up..two thumbs up :thumbsup::thumbsup:

only problem is sr's sound shitty compared to rb's :ph34r:

How's a RB25 180 go then?

Better than a skyline in every way? Or is there a tradeoff :P

ive never driven one, from what ive read they do go pretty hard, with the extra torque, but i believe there is a bit of a handling sacrifice with the extra weight in the front end.. still would be an awesome car to drive, love seeing some of the engines that people put into s13 chassis :rolleyes:

My bog stock, n/a Skyline just wiped the floor with a pulsar q running an SR20 with full exhaust + probably other stuff.

I've driven an SR20 powered Pulsar. It was bleh.

Dunno if the turbo ones are much better...

I have driven an RB30 powered Patrol, it was pretty bleh, and yet my little RB26 Skyline goes alright... This story about street racing, although cool, is pointless.

A mate of mine has a 180 making 270+ awkw.. They are a great value bang for buck, they seem to be a bit held back from the factory with some very simple mods they will be all over any standard Skyline in a straight line. I would definately recommend it.

ive never driven one, from what ive read they do go pretty hard, with the extra torque, but i believe there is a bit of a handling sacrifice with the extra weight in the front end.. still would be an awesome car to drive, love seeing some of the engines that people put into s13 chassis :rolleyes:

With a set of coils all round and cambered fronts theres no sacrifice in handling, but my rb is as far back as possible that would help a bit, but handles just as good as with the chatty ca in it.

yea they do go wicked too, I had my neo in a VL first and it flew but the engine sounded like it was working, in the 180 the 6 doesn't feel the weight of the car at all.

and the sound....need I say more

Edited by ForceFedVL

i am an EX silvia owner, my near stock s13 sr20det with T28 from a s15 kicked and r33 RB25DET with power fc, cooler, exh etc.

they are alot lighter than skylines, after fully building my s13 drift/drag/street car it ran 11.03 1/4mile with only 268kw.

My this, my that, handling this, buy my car, I just beat this etc. etc.

Yes they go well and sound like ass. Different feel, but performance wise very much on par with an R33 GTS-T.

I drove my 180 around standard for a couple of months before putting all the gear off my track car on it. Standard form they are nothing to write home about, but then again neither is a standard RB25 Skyline. Skyline probably just has the edge. The S13's are over-geared in stock form in my opinion. Always feel way to tall either around town or on the highway, making them more sluggish than they should be. A 4.3 diff improves things alot. Handle pretty well in standard form if its in good nick.

I've never driven a stock SR20 180SX, however my brother owned a CA18 180SX for 7years, and that went real hard....was making 250rwhp in a car that weighs 1100kg....very quick and nimble little car with the right power and suspension mods.

With a set of coils all round and cambered fronts theres no sacrifice in handling, but my rb is as far back as possible that would help a bit, but handles just as good as with the chatty ca in it.

yea they do go wicked too, I had my neo in a VL first and it flew but the engine sounded like it was working, in the 180 the 6 doesn't feel the weight of the car at all.

and the sound....need I say more

You know vl's and silvias are very similar in weight. Silvias ~ 1250kg vl (depending on which one) 1250~1350

My bog stock, n/a Skyline just wiped the floor with a pulsar q running an SR20 with full exhaust + probably other stuff.

I've driven an SR20 powered Pulsar. It was bleh.

Dunno if the turbo ones are much better...

must've been a thrashed pulsar or a shit driver, because my SSS pulsar is faster than a natro 33.

anywho, i've owned a SR20 powered turbo 180sx as well as driven a CA18 turbo 180sx. in a race situation a SR20 powered 180sx will keep up with a r33. the stock performance times are pretty much identical. mod them and i think they are pretty much the same as well.

to drive on a day to day basis they are different though. the skyline has a lot more down low and feels more like a bigger natro car, while the 180sx requires a bit more revs to get up and going. if you throw a t28 ball bearing turbo on the 180sx then that evens things up a bit. with the stock turbo on there you certainly do get more of a rush up around 4000rpm once it really starts to come on song, so you actually get more of a sensation of speed. handling wise the 180 feels more nimble, but the ride is rougher. the skyline feels smoother and more refined, but a bit less sporty.

You know vl's and silvias are very similar in weight. Silvias ~ 1250kg vl (depending on which one) 1250~1350

Well wasnt quite sure what the 180 weight was, jus feels alot lighter handling wise, must just be the better chassis, yea my vl was about 1300 but had alot higher gearing in it so that would explain the motor sounding like it was working. 3.08 diff ratio 2nd tapped out at 137, 180 feels a little low geared, gets up to 200 quick smart but feels like it doesnt want to do much after that

Edited by ForceFedVL

Why on earth is everyone talking about non turbo 180's and r33's when the OP stated turbo on a number of occasions.

ok i just went back through most of the posts and i can't see any reference to natro 180's or skylines. is it just because people were saying "sr20" and "rb25"? that can be refering to either turbo or natro since they didn't say DE or DET, and in the context of most of the posts they seem to be talking about turbo ones (especially when mentioning power figures of over 200hp)

dont need but would recommend 5 stud all round for the bigger brakes and wheel fitment, but like I said not a requirement, can use r33 rear hubs with handbrake setup and r33 cable, s14 front hubs and lcas (widens track a little though) with skyline brakes all round, just for a bit of wank factor, r32/A31 crossmember, r32 steel engine mount brackets I slotted mine so engine sat right back and as low as poss as bonnet hits throttlebody, gearbox yoke off skiddy, bigger radiator, couple of 12" thermos and get rid of A/C...I could keep mine cool with a/c but couldnt use it at all, much better now that its gone. also need to make up a gearbox crossmember...pretty easy really just probably will have a few teething issues.

Thats just off top of my head, been a year or so since I done mine, plenty of threads already on it though so a search should turn up some stuff, on here or nissansilvia (although ns doesnt seem to have very good info on it, full of f**kheads)

as for price try and add up all parts

prices are gold coast prices

mount brackets $100 per side

crossmember $250

rear hubs and adapter for cable $330

front hubs lcas approx $200 I think I got them for

R32 GTR brakes were $700

if you get new rotors DBA ones are $770 all round

add like 3k for all the little things you forgot about

add a couple of k for more things forgot about lol

Then double it and that will be how much it will cost

Edited by ForceFedVL
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...