Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

IMG_9039.jpg

hi guys, these are 18x9.5 +18 all round, rears have plenty of room still but fronts sit flush.

I think car should be obvious as to what it is. Lol

I'm gonna run 19x9.5 when I can afford to. Not sure of offset tho, I think rear should be slightly lower offset to the front.

I would do very bad things to own a set of 18x9.5" Regamasters.

I'm surprised how many people like these wheels, I'd never heard of them until my mate bought these. They do suit my car pretty well. Maybe I should offer him some coin...

i'm trying to sell my rims so i can get a set of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BB5-LM-BBS-STYLE-19-INCH-BMW-VW-AUDI-ALFA-NISSAN-TOYOTA-/270698021749?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f06dc0375

cheap knockoff's - yes, but i'll never be able to justify the cost of genuine LM's and nevvvvver in 19 inch.

these come in 19x9.5 +20, which should sit nice.

otherwise i'll just keep my axis hiro's 19x8.5 +28 and space them out, because they look rather weak.

question though, can i use a 20mm on the front and a 25mm on the back? or do they have to be the same all round to avoid upsetting the ATTESSA?

I'm surprised how many people like these wheels, I'd never heard of them until my mate bought these. They do suit my car pretty well. Maybe I should offer him some coin...

Never heard of them before, just googled them, not much of a fan really

can someone please tell me if these sizes 18x8.5 +32 18x9.5 +12 will fit my S1 auto? as i am hopeless when it comes to knowing what size will fit

Cheers

Assuming the 8.5's are front, and 9.5's are rear, I think they will fit (although front might hit on your shocks? Not sure on that) but it wont be worth it. Rears would need a bit of guardwork, lowness, and camber so that it didnt look mexican, and the front would be fairly sunken, wouldnt match the rears at all.

You would also need to run different size tyres front and rear to maintain the same rolling diameter between front and rear, so that the ATTESSA system doesnt chuck a tantrum.

Assuming the 8.5's are front, and 9.5's are rear, I think they will fit (although front might hit on your shocks? Not sure on that) but it wont be worth it. Rears would need a bit of guardwork, lowness, and camber so that it didnt look mexican, and the front would be fairly sunken, wouldnt match the rears at all.

You would also need to run different size tyres front and rear to maintain the same rolling diameter between front and rear, so that the ATTESSA system doesnt chuck a tantrum.

Thanks,

Would you be able to tell me what would be the right offset and widths for s1, wanna get some bronze CR Kais

Thanks,

Would you be able to tell me what would be the right offset and widths for s1, wanna get some bronze CR Kais

18x9 all round is a good size imo (although 9.5's can easily fit), but it really all depends on what look you are going for. I am running 18x9+18 all round on mine, with 235/40 tyres. The rears sit pretty nice, but the fronts need to come out a little bit, I am going to use 15 or 20mm spacers at the front, whenever i get around to it. The C34 front guards can take pretty low offset wheels compared to the rear, especially when everything is stock.

Remember, you can use different offset at the front and at the rear without a problem, it's only having different width wheels that messes the ATTESSA up. So you could go 18x9+15 rear, and 18x9 0 front if you wanted to. Just depends how aggressive you want to go.

This is how mine looks (still needs more low dry.gif)

IMG_0088.jpg?t=1296639713

IMG_0070.jpg?t=1296639811

IMG_0076.jpg?t=1296639810

If you don't run a spastic rim width stagger you could just do same size tyres all round too, I'm sure the difference in how a tyre seats on say a 9 and 10" rim wouldn't make enough difference in diameter to faze it.

  • 1 month later...

Sorry to ressurect an old thread but which would you guys recommend for an S1 auto RS four;

17x9 +15 or 17x9 +20?

I don't want to modding guards. I just want to bolt the wheels on and enjoy.

thanks for your help!

I have 17x9 +30 but I think either of the above would be fine - depends on your suspension. The front track is narrower than the rear so I have 20mm spacesr on the front - 25mm would be ideal but 20mm is now the legal max for spacers here.

I bought some 18x9 +20 (215/45 tyres) and 18x10 +21 (235/45 tyres) wheels while I was in VIC picking the car up.

the rears should work out perfect w/o the use of camber arms, but they are a little close to the rear shock, it looks like it should clear by 5mm or so, but I'm hoping BC don't use a thicker shock case otherwise I might run into some issues.

Fronts aren't as aggressive as the rears, so I'll probably use a 10mm bolt on spacer to make it look even and have similar fitment all round.

Edited by RoadsterGarage

I bought some 18x9 +20 (215/45 tyres) and 18x10 +21 (235/45 tyres) wheels while I was in VIC picking the car up.

The stagea you bought is a AWd RS4 right??

You will have big issues if you run those tyres. Need to be the same rolling diameter front to rear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Physically, you'd expect it to turn the motor 11/8ths faster than a standard one, but I'm not sure of specifics
    • Ironically the GTT was quite reliable in the 7 years of ownership. From memory I've only had to replace a radiator and coilpacks out of inconvenience 
    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
×
×
  • Create New...