Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've found the best way is to coat it in paint stripper (aerosol can or brush it on) and after 5-15min when the paint is bubbling, spray it down with a high pressure water hose.

I've found the best way is to coat it in paint stripper (aerosol can or brush it on) and after 5-15min when the paint is bubbling, spray it down with a high pressure water hose.

Thanks!!

After that, all the paint should be off right? :D

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Ha...Ha...

I still haven't done mine yet lol, what did you use? :P

Any pics? :D

I used Paint Stripper I bought from Auto Barn.

Came in a 1litre tin.

Take front bar off > Apply Paint Stripper with a paint brush > Allow to soak for 15 mins > High pressure hose off.

Re-apply Paint Stripper if needed...

fmico.jpg

fmic1.jpg

Awesomeeeeee! Might give it a go on Friday :D

You might not have to sand it back...

The Paint Stripper is very strong stuff and will rip off everything and take the intercooler back to the bare metal.

Sanding it back will just smooth it off a little and you'd probably won't notice it much...

I'd say, Paint Strip it then polish it and see how you go 1st.

Also to polish try autosol that stuff works wonders, An if not wanting to sand use those soapy steelo's then autosol, I do this to my polished outter of my rims. For the rims its takes time but gets rid of the junk on them.

Aerosol paint stripper will be best for this kind of job...doesn't strip as fast but it will get in the gaps of the core and between the fins where the paint has also been sprayed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To back this up, I'm always looking on the outside, seeing the level, and then opening it up anyway, as I'm worried the level I've looked at, is more so a scunge line. Then you end up dipping your damn finger in it too depending on the type of tank you're looking at just to make sure I'm not going insane.   PS, Mark, polish up the none moroso one a bit and then give it a clear coat. The Moroso one looks to be way shiner (not mirror polished, just shinier) and it'll still look weird with the two different alloys beside each other. Either that, or Id probably paint them a flat black...
    • Good old Orange Park hey... 😛   f**k I miss that race track
    • lo, it was a death trap. Good times. Got any Fatz Drift Day DVDs still available?
    • Yes, overthinking. Many PS reserviors are completely opaque. Our Skyline ones, for example. Have to remove lid, peak inside, swirl the dipstick, try to remember how to read it, etc etc. Normal. Radiator overflows are often sufficiently opaque and scunged up that you can't see the true level inside anyway, and have to open and have a peak. Besides which, I replaced the (massively expensive, even back then) plastic overflow in my Alfa GTV, back in the '90s with a stainless one that I had a good fabricator make up to be dimensionally same-same, that looks remarkably similar to the Bogan's Moroso one above, and I never suffered any particular paranoia that I didn't know how much coolant was in it.
    • Looks great, but I'm always concerned that it makes it difficult to see what level the fluids are at. Am I overthinking this?
×
×
  • Create New...