Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

So i bought a Datsun 120Y, real classic shape, always loved it. 4 speed manual, around 35kw factory, a real beast whistling.gif

I want to use this car for mainly track, but wouldn't mind having it registered so i can drive occasionally also. My plans for it are:

-engine conversion, either a RB20DET or SR20DET. Personally would prefer the RB, only cause i know how they sound and feel, and its amazing. Thoughts on this?

-5 speed box from either the SR or the RB. Better for sliding then the stock 4 speed? worth the extra cash?

- nice exhaust, just good flow, 3" will do.

- Big cooler, to keep the temp, on track down

- some nice jap dished rims, 15" or 16" preferably, but really wide.

- obviously supporting mods for the engine, like manifolds, boost controller and gauge etc.

- just a fresh respray, black would be nice, go over the stock blue easily and be nice and cheap.

So, whats your opinion on how this will pan out as a build? Mind you this will be done over a 1-3 year period, and Im trying to keep it around 10k max.

Cheers guys, let me know what you think!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351234-so-i-bought-a-datsun-1200/
Share on other sites

Awesome. Always wanted to stick a big motor in one of those old datto's.

The SR20 should be lighter being an alloy block, but has a few weaknesses in the rocker arms, timing chain etc but won't be a problem at stockish power levels.

How about a CA18DET? Might be a good option.

I'm pretty sure the engine bay isn't anywhere long enough to accommodate 6 cylinders. A grunty little 4, along the lines of the CA18, is likely your best bet.

But then you need to worry about how to make it stop. And turn corners. Maybe address those problems first.

An RB won't fit without moving the firewall or relocating the radiator.

The CA/SR/FJ route has been done a lot, and for good reason. It works.

If it's a toy I'd look at decompressing an L20 and hanging a T3 sucking through a Weber off the side. 130kW, heaps of fun, relativelly cheap.

Check out Ozdat and Datnet websites for more info.

BTW, you're in probably the best place in the counrty to own a Datto. Maddat and Datsport are both in SA.

Maddat concentrate more on 120y and Datsport on 1600s. But both are an awesome source of parts and knowledge.

There's a guy up here in Brisbane who's got a rb26 with a big single (not sure if its as big as a gt35 though) in a 120Y.It can be done, not sure if it'd be any good though, traction wise. A ~230Kw motor is about all you'd want to go for in one anyway, from what i've heard.

Or you could be different and chuck a carburetted L20 in it. (or U20 if they fit, and you can find one)

  • Like 1

either ca or sr. you will have trouble fitting a rb in there (not saying it can't be done, just saying it's much harder than the 4 pots). mate of mine has a 1200 ute with a ca in it. goes pretty good. if you go a sr and want to spend time at high rpm just put some rocker stoppers in and you'll be right.

Yeh thinking tHe CA or SR is a cheaper, simpler way to go. Does anyone know what the process is for registering an engine swap? And costs?

You could turbo the A series easy enough.

Or, as one guy on Ozdat has done, get it breathing through a set of motorbike throttle bodies. Not a difficult job, goes well enough to have some fun. revs like a banshee and sounds amazing.

He's running a Megasquirt and it works a treat.

Not his car but A series' running quad flatslides off a bike.

BTW, you're in probably the best place in the counrty to own a Datto. Maddat and Datsport are both in SA.

Maddat concentrate more on 120y and Datsport on 1600s. But both are an awesome source of parts and knowledge.

imo these fellas in sa are local and in the know. see ozdat or nzdatsun.com also for info. i have a few mates with datto 1200s and utes in nz even sporting fj20et. one tuff engine :s

enginekt9.jpg

Drove it home today, didnt make it up the drive way first time domokun.gif

It starts when its cold, but the battery charge light comes on and stays on, and then it idles fine, you turn it off and try and turn it back on and it wont even tick over, is the alternator stuffed? I couldnt figure it out :S

anyway, im going to strip as much as i can legally this weekend, and hopefully get a new door rolleyes.gif

How cheaply can i get a SR20DET setup? I dont mind about kilometres, just in good running condition... I think this is the next task, get that crappy A12 out and get is running smoothly.

Also, could mods please move this to Projects/Build ups?

Thanks guys

How "cheaply" depends of if you want a decent job, or a POS that'll never be right.

http://www.maddat.com.au/1200.php

That's a good starting point.

Figure in $1000 for a fitting kit, $1500 from brake upgrade, $300 for rubbers, $1000 for fuel system, $500 + for radiator/intercooler (or $1700 for the Maddat kit), $1500 for a diff (or$2,500 for the Maddat kit).

There's $6k there and you don't have the engine yet. You're going to need probably another $1000 for electrical stuff. Your trans tunnel will need significant mods. Figure in at least $700 there unless you can do it all yourself.

Of course, you could do it cheaper than this by building a lot of stuff yourself, for example sourcing some R31 front struts, having them cut down, a new spring platform made up and some smaller, custom coils made. You'd probably get them for $1000 then, but in reality you'd likely need new discs and pads and both caliper rebuilt. Don't do this, and it might be $500 cheaper but your result is questionable.

BTW, is it a 120 or a 1200?

SR like people are saying is going to be a good way to go.

I've only just moved over to a Silvia from rallying a 120Y for many years, Dad and i are actually restoring another one now that will end up with an SR engine upgrade.

You really need to consider handling and brakes before putting that much power into a 120Y though. There is heaps of stuff available though to upgrade them. My old car had disc brakes all round with commodore callipers and vented front rotors.

I also added a rear sway bar and panard bar whilst putting in a TA22 celica diff.

front suspension was Stanza with commodore inserts the list goes on lol, but that should give you some ideas.

If you can do most of it yourself you will save a lot of money as the parts ive listed are not that expensive to buy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...