Jump to content
SAU Community

What Tailshaft Are You Running

CeJay
 Share

Recommended Posts

CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
Posted

Just wondering with people out there who have had to replace their old tailshaft. What did you replace it with?

Did you go 2 piece or 1 piece?

Custom or nissan?

Looks like I may need to replace my 5-6 month old 1 piece tailshaft. And I wanted to see what other people have done and who they went with.

Good or bad experiences.

Also What type of power are people putting out? Especially with the two piece stock tailshaft.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351451-what-tailshaft-are-you-running/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

FineLine
FineLine

Its a harmonics thing. The one piece gets a death vibe at certain rpm whereas the 2 piece halves the likelihood of it happenning.

Posted Images

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Ring any tailshaft maker in your area and they should tell you that a tube shaft of the length required in a skyline (I think it's around 50inches) will go critical at 6000-6500rpm. The harmonic inbalance is usually so harsh that they bend or buckle as a result.

Of course it depends on the material they are made from, how thick and the diameter of the tube but 2 piece shafts are stronger, much stronger. We put 600+hp through them all the time without hassles

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

When I put the 25 box in my 32 I got a local place (Final Drive) to build me a new tailshaft, for $700 I got a 2.75" 2 piece to the length I needed, with a brand new slip yoke to suit the 25 box, heavy duty rebuildable Spicer uni's and a new centre bearing.

+11ty on the comments about 1-pieces in our cars, they might be fine in a Torana but not Skylines :P

Edited by bubba
FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted

i really want to understand why 2 piece is better than 1 piece - is it?

Its a harmonics thing. The one piece gets a death vibe at certain rpm whereas the 2 piece halves the likelihood of it happenning.

  • Nope 1
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

i really want to understand why 2 piece is better than 1 piece - is it?

Ring any tailshaft maker in your area and they should tell you that a tube shaft of the length required in a skyline (I think it's around 50inches) will go critical at 6000-6500rpm. The harmonic inbalance is usually so harsh that they bend or buckle as a result.

Of course it depends on the material they are made from, how thick and the diameter of the tube but 2 piece shafts are stronger, much stronger. We put 600+hp through them all the time without hassles

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

Just wondering with people out there who have had to replace their old tailshaft. What did you replace it with?

Did you go 2 piece or 1 piece?

Custom or nissan?

Looks like I may need to replace my 5-6 month old 1 piece tailshaft. And I wanted to see what other people have done and who they went with.

Good or bad experiences.

Also What type of power are people putting out? Especially with the two piece stock tailshaft.

thanks

you probably need a new cv joint at the rear.. alot of people dont realise that the 1 piece offerd by everyone re uses the 20 yr old cv.... albeit re packed, unless you get uni joints on the back... and a new cv is like 700 bucks or something.

i replaced my one with a ba-bf v8 falcon center cv joint. same inner spline and same bolt pcd. only thing is the body needs to be machined to suit the rear dif flange as it fits into it. rather than bolts to it only.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

2 piece shafts are nicer to the car maker. drive line angles etc etc. also as said previously, the critical rpm at wich harmonics take over. 2 short shafts will not hum like a long single one.

im no engineer but i dont think the length of a gtr shaft will be an issue. the longest 1 piece in use is the oe ford falcon station wagon at 1.7m.. pre ba series. and its alloy.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

The imbalance wouldnt have something to do with the independent diff centre being solid mounted, as opposed to older style vehicles where the centre can move up and down with the suspension thus helping to releive some of the imbalance would it?

traybak utes i have noticed also have 2 piece shafts, I started wondering why and my logic was that when you fully load them up there is not alot of rear suspension travel (they are basically designed so they can run on the bumpstops). If your engine/box is vibrating away but the diff is solid I figure this is where the harmonic imbalance could stem from..

Just another one of my homebaked theories.. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...