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So I'm doing a turbo swap on my R32 GTR, the old ceramics are going and -9's put in place, I'm also replacing the stock dumps with Tomei's (new style), Nismo frontpipe (60x2 -> 80) for a HKS frontpipe (70x2 -> 85).

It is mainly my daily, but I want to hit the track acouple times a year and want the underbonnet temps down.

I was thinking about getting the stock manifold ceramic coated (outside), dumps (inside & out) & turbo housings (inside & out). While wrapping the front pipe with exhaust wrap.

Would it be overkill to also wrap the dumps & manifold too, and how much many metres would I need (to do manifold, dumps & frontpipe)?

So I'm doing a turbo swap on my R32 GTR, the old ceramics are going and -9's put in place, I'm also replacing the stock dumps with Tomei's (new style), Nismo frontpipe (60x2 -> 80) for a HKS frontpipe (70x2 -> 85).

It is mainly my daily, but I want to hit the track acouple times a year and want the underbonnet temps down.

I was thinking about getting the stock manifold ceramic coated (outside), dumps (inside & out) & turbo housings (inside & out). While wrapping the front pipe with exhaust wrap.

Would it be overkill to also wrap the dumps & manifold too, and how much many metres would I need (to do manifold, dumps & frontpipe)?

My understanding is a good ceramic coating is way better than exhaust wrap so I wouldnt bother with the exhaust wrap as well.

The front pipe is 90% under the car so I dont think you will see much drop in underbonnet temps from heat wrapping the front pipe. May even be worse because it insulates it from the airflow underneath the car.

My understanding is a good ceramic coating is way better than exhaust wrap so I wouldnt bother with the exhaust wrap as well.

The front pipe is 90% under the car so I dont think you will see much drop in underbonnet temps from heat wrapping the front pipe. May even be worse because it insulates it from the airflow underneath the car.

I pulled off my front pipe on my car and heat wrapped it. I know when I am a passenger my right leg used to get very warm. Since then it is not as bad. Just do it. It wont/cant hurt!

reuse or custom fab some decent heat shields as well maybe ceramic coat em too

I didnt and am regretting it enough I will be pulling water lines etc. off to put new factory ones on ASAP

Relocating the carbon canister to allow more airflow to pods etc. is a major plus while you have room too.

Much easier than trying to do it afterword.

Edited by noone

What's the process involved in taking the turbo apart so the exhaust housing can be coated? is it a no brainer thing I cna do at home or something best left to a turbo expert

Brand new Garrett -9's. I counted 6 nuts that look like they secure the exhaust housing on, is it just a matter of undoing them and the ex housing just slides off?

Also when I pull them apart, do I need to pay special attention to putting the exhaust housing back on the turbo it was taken off, or shouldn't it matter as they're twins?

if possible i would use a centre punch and mark the 1st housing with 1 dot and mark the centre housing with 1 dot so the dots line up when refitting, and 2 dots on the 2nd turbo.

yep just undo all 6 or so bolts and then carefully twist and remove the rear housing. when refitting make sure the turbine spins after install

  • 3 weeks later...

I went through with what I planned, dropped these off last week, got them back today. $500 all up to get all 6 pieces (2x standard exhaust manifolds, 2x tomei dumps (new style) & 2x hks gt-ss/garrett -9 turbo exhaust housings coated inside and out with high temp satin black by Ceramic Coat (division of Pacemaker headers, next door).

The exhaust housings are back on the turbos, and now in the process of doing the turbo swap (ceramics out).

Took lots of pictures.

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  • 4 months later...

Coming from an ex employee of AAA exhausts ( next to pacemakers and ceramic coat australia, a guy who I work with ) using exhaust wrap crystalizes the metal ( especially stainless ) and halves its life causing cracks... best possible option is ceramic and heat sheilds but no wrap... this is what I'll be doing :thumbsup:

Coming from an ex employee of AAA exhausts ( next to pacemakers and ceramic coat australia, a guy who I work with ) using exhaust wrap crystalizes the metal ( especially stainless ) and halves its life causing cracks... best possible option is ceramic and heat sheilds but no wrap... this is what I'll be doing :thumbsup:

+1 I'm always about under bonnets temps as I ran my car on a cold and hot day and there was nearly a 40kw difference when the motor got really hot.

I first tried a decent exhaust wrap.... was absolutely sh*t, would never recommend - itchy as hell on your skin and does not do much for temps and after a few months I had a massive crack in my factory manifold.

I bought another stock manifold, got that as well as the turbo's rear housing heat coated inside and out which made a difference, but not that much.

The thing that made a massive difference - as in, I could not touch my intake pipe after a long drive it was that hot to the intake pipe feeling cold after a long drive was a heatshield I made out of aluminum which cost me $20

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