Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Also for those that haven't heard the latest, there is a meeting planned for engineering signatories with the RTA (roads and traffic authority) next week.

There are around 70 engineers going to this meeting to discuss the proposed legislation on vehicle modifications, including the suspension regulations.

Basically they will be raising a lot of points about how silly some of the new proposed laws will be and try to explain why they are rubbish. Labor is backing the proposed laws, and the Liberals are against. Gives you something to think about voting time too...

Also they propose to raise the registration costs on older vehicles, to a point that the majority can't afford it, to get them off the road. That's under the Labor party.

Various things such as, vehicle owners, enthusiasts, the automotive aftermarket and workshops all come into play here as to whether we get to do what we enjoy and also the whole industry keeps going, or if we all end up driving white goods, with no soul, and not allowed to change anything.

That about sums it up, and that's just the start. If you guys have anything to add, please do!

Cheers

  • Like 1

Why don't you make a petition for not banning murdering and sent it to all the murderers while you're at it lol.

English? and WTF?

P.S. Signed

Edited by iplen
  • Like 1

Why does a road car need to be raised / lowered more than 5cm anyway? Track specials, I can understand, but anything that is road registered doesn't need to. If you're serious enough to have a car capable of winning championshios, then it will have a shedload of other illegal mods anyway, and most likely wouldn't be much fun on the roads.

Apart from possibly WRC cars, I haven't ever seen a rally car raised anywhere near 5cm, so that's no excuse (thinking about competition vehicles that *need* to be registered).

Maybe hardcore offroaders need the extra lift, and I'm not going to argue against that. Everyone else, OTOH, well I agree that 5cm is more than enough for a road car. Maybe it will get some of these dickhead slammed civics riding on 20" chromies off our roads.

Can't always have your cake and eat it too.

Edited by warps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...