Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Joe,

Main exterior differences are slightly lower ride height (~10mm) assuming you're comparing stock vs. stock; bootlid badge, finned rear differential on V-spec.

Main interior difference would be the "A-LSD" warning light on the tachometer.

Mechanical differences were a computer controlled active rear diff (as part of ATTESA-ETS Pro) and lower, slightly stiffer suspension. I think it equated to something like .7 of a second around Tsukuba and .3 of a second 0-400m according to Best Motoring (can't remember exactly) - not much difference.

If you do a search you'll find more info.

Supposedly the V-Spec models weighed 10 kg more...

Firmer suspension = Lower ride height = Better handling.

Came with an ATTESA E-TS Pro All Wheel Drive system, which included an Active Limited Slip differential (Active LSD).

The V-spec model also included a four wheel independent channel anti lock braking system.

Just google it. I havent got a photo handle but its damn obvious. If you bend down at the rear and look straight in the middle, you will see the diff. If it doesnt have cooling fins (like heatsink), its a non-v spec.

Bugger. Obviously it aint good that you were sold something that didn't match the description (whether the PO did it unwittingly or knowingly). But TBH I don't think you'll even notice the difference unless you're on a track and maybe not even then.

My BCNR33 was a non-V-spec. Maybe others have different experiences, but I had different suspension in there anyway, so the diff (and the ABS as SKYLINE mentioned) were the only differences and they made 0 difference to me. The rear diff is still an LSD, it's just a mechanical one, not active.

Hopefully the rest of your purchase is up to par - I'm sure you're planning on getting it checked out at a good workshop that knows GTRs ASAP?

Did you buy it private or from a dealer? If from a dealer you might be able to do something about it.

  • Like 1

I got it from a private seller and contacted him just then. He had no idea that it wasn't a v-spec and was as shocked as i am. He recons he couldve sworn it was a vspec. but oh well :( Could you reccomend any decent workshops to look at my car in adelaide?

  • 1 month later...

This forum has been very helpful. Does anyone know if the 320km/hr speedo or dash set-up depends on whether the 33 GT-R is a V-spec or not? If not, which particular models do have the 320 speedo? Thinking of buying a 33 GT-R and trying to learn a bit more about them.

This forum has been very helpful. Does anyone know if the 320km/hr speedo or dash set-up depends on whether the 33 GT-R is a V-spec or not? If not, which particular models do have the 320 speedo? Thinking of buying a 33 GT-R and trying to learn a bit more about them.

Pretty sure none of them(normal and vspec) had a 320km/h speed, only maybe that 400r thingy.

They all had 180k speedos because they were all limited, but a lot will have speedo changed anyway. The only difference you will see on the dash is the A-LSD light in the middle of the speedo (or tacho maybe). As has been said already, there is SFA difference. I would believe the difference in track times though, driven both 32 and 33 v-specs, the 33 feels far more stable and much happier to get on the power in the corner

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • lol no cats running str pipes … might put the high flow back on but I suspect it might effect my ignition timing a bit. 
    • That looks a bit like yellowing to me. If the rear bar was looking like that from rich idle, I'd ask the question, do you have a catalytic converter fitted, and fully working?
    • Oh yeah gets really bad down here. I’ll have to upgrade the heater and wind screen wipers as well for optimal performance.
×
×
  • Create New...