Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Tell A Vspec Apart From A Non Vspec On R33 Models

Rydeit

By Rydeit,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

God_speed Veteran

God_speed

Posted
Posted

Hey Joe,

Main exterior differences are slightly lower ride height (~10mm) assuming you're comparing stock vs. stock; bootlid badge, finned rear differential on V-spec.

Main interior difference would be the "A-LSD" warning light on the tachometer.

Mechanical differences were a computer controlled active rear diff (as part of ATTESA-ETS Pro) and lower, slightly stiffer suspension. I think it equated to something like .7 of a second around Tsukuba and .3 of a second 0-400m according to Best Motoring (can't remember exactly) - not much difference.

If you do a search you'll find more info.

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Supposedly the V-Spec models weighed 10 kg more...

Firmer suspension = Lower ride height = Better handling.

Came with an ATTESA E-TS Pro All Wheel Drive system, which included an Active Limited Slip differential (Active LSD).

The V-spec model also included a four wheel independent channel anti lock braking system.

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted

Just google it. I havent got a photo handle but its damn obvious. If you bend down at the rear and look straight in the middle, you will see the diff. If it doesnt have cooling fins (like heatsink), its a non-v spec.

God_speed Veteran

God_speed

Posted
Posted

Bugger. Obviously it aint good that you were sold something that didn't match the description (whether the PO did it unwittingly or knowingly). But TBH I don't think you'll even notice the difference unless you're on a track and maybe not even then.

My BCNR33 was a non-V-spec. Maybe others have different experiences, but I had different suspension in there anyway, so the diff (and the ABS as SKYLINE mentioned) were the only differences and they made 0 difference to me. The rear diff is still an LSD, it's just a mechanical one, not active.

Hopefully the rest of your purchase is up to par - I'm sure you're planning on getting it checked out at a good workshop that knows GTRs ASAP?

Did you buy it private or from a dealer? If from a dealer you might be able to do something about it.

  • Like 1
Rydeit Contributor

Rydeit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I got it from a private seller and contacted him just then. He had no idea that it wasn't a v-spec and was as shocked as i am. He recons he couldve sworn it was a vspec. but oh well :( Could you reccomend any decent workshops to look at my car in adelaide?

  • 1 month later...
Bren444 Collaborator

Bren444

Posted
Posted

This forum has been very helpful. Does anyone know if the 320km/hr speedo or dash set-up depends on whether the 33 GT-R is a V-spec or not? If not, which particular models do have the 320 speedo? Thinking of buying a 33 GT-R and trying to learn a bit more about them.

rehab2010 Proficient

rehab2010

Posted
Posted

This forum has been very helpful. Does anyone know if the 320km/hr speedo or dash set-up depends on whether the 33 GT-R is a V-spec or not? If not, which particular models do have the 320 speedo? Thinking of buying a 33 GT-R and trying to learn a bit more about them.

Pretty sure none of them(normal and vspec) had a 320km/h speed, only maybe that 400r thingy.

iplen Mentor

iplen

Posted
Posted

They all had 180k speedos because they were all limited, but a lot will have speedo changed anyway. The only difference you will see on the dash is the A-LSD light in the middle of the speedo (or tacho maybe). As has been said already, there is SFA difference. I would believe the difference in track times though, driven both 32 and 33 v-specs, the 33 feels far more stable and much happier to get on the power in the corner

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      Ben's R32 Gtst Build

      By Roy · Posted

      Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Shizu
      Returning after a long time!

      By Shizu · Posted

      Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • dbm7
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...