Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mate throw up a price might know someone interested? Damo's old 31?

deffinatly is damos old 31. been ripped apart and put back together. mods added and even starts everytime the key is hit. dont have that battery issue anymore :banana: hasnt hit the rd since dec last year. typical slack me shedded it got some energy and pulled it apart and left it at that. now finally back together tuned and now gives u a lovely headache if you acidently hit the next gear a smidge to hard.

also the hydro handbrack looks like stock and is hidden by center consol but if the spring is reinstalled it can be used as per a normal handbrake.

car can come with some s13 rims 180 rims 14inch rims or 17inch rims have 4 or 5 full sets to suit this car. also have a screamer that can be installed

forgot to add the car also come with a pioneer mp3 deck (dolphin style deck) pioneer splits and pioneer 2 way rear.

add bigger turbo more boost and coilys and would be a great regoed slider

SOME R32 GEAR Up for sale,

Standard Rb20det Turbo in perfect condition $120

post-59106-1289176684_thumb.jpg

Standard Side Mount in Good Condition (with some Piping) $ 50

post-59106-1289176920_thumb.jpg

R32 gtst rears camber arms, in great condition,$ 50

post-59106-1289176877_thumb.jpg

R32gtst steering wheel whit all bits and peices $ 30

PM me as i am regulary on the site :blink:

All offers will be considered

cheers Giuseppe

Hi guys

R34 Coupe Rear WindScreen

Price: $250

Condition: Perfect

R34 Reo

Price: $150

Condition: Perfect

R34 Decat Pipe

Price: $50

Condition: Perfect

Fitted: Take off from R34

R34 Rear Tail Light (Driver Side)

Price: $150

Condition: Perfect and Black

Volk Racing 18" Rims 8" x 35 offset

Price: $800

Condition: Good, Come with 2x 235 40 A048 20-30%, 255 40 Pirelli Pzero Rosso 40% approx

Fitted: Take off from R34 GTT

Exedy Sports Ceramic Clutch Kit for R34 GTT Used

Condition: Used, But in very Good Condition, like New

Suit: R34 GTT, Not sure fit other Skyline model or not

Price: $500

PM me thx

post-44385-1289198117_thumb.jpg

post-44385-1289198176_thumb.jpg

post-44385-1289198257_thumb.jpg

post-44385-1289198345_thumb.jpg

post-44385-1289198402_thumb.jpg

Prices adjusted

S14 Brake Rotors (280mm) and Calipers (4 piston). Front set only. Dont know what brand pads. $200(JMS have some with hubs for around $900)

Comes with the stock rubber lines, caliper bolts, and a hug from yours truly.

th_DSC_0199.jpg

R32 GTR intercooler core, inside is clean, in decent nick. $100

th_DSC_0198.jpg

R32 GTR standard radiator $50

th_DSC_0197.jpg

S14 SMIC with complete stock piping $50

th_DSC_0196.jpg

R33 rotors, freshly machined. $80

th_DSC_0192.jpg

S14 front and rear seats in excellent condition, with rails. $120 firm!

th_DSC_0193.jpgth_DSC_0194.jpg

Series 2 rb25det (90 thou kms)

Solid intake piping

Front mount intercooler

Catch can with garden hose

Drift pod filter

Advance front pipe

Signal straight through zorst

Custom 2.5 straight pipes

Nismo strut brace (F)

Alloy cradle bushes

D1 garage hicas lock bar

Cusco brake master stopper

Skyline strut brace ®

Racing gear n1 coilovers

Project mu slotted rotors (F)

D1 rear camber arms

Air con removed (heater core remains)

35% tint all round

18" manaray VR5's

Series 2 door trims

Greddy boost gauge

Autometer oil pressure gauge

Suede dish drift wheel

HKB boss kit

GTR rear spoiler

Full body respray in Blood Orange

Brand new battery

Brand new battery terminals

Brand new battery leads

Serviced every 5,000kms with motul

NGK bcpr6es spark plugs

Ryco z145a Oil Filter

90,000kms on engine

134,xxx kms on body

Has had 100,000kms service done

$11,000

ws3b74.jpg

156bqsy.jpg

16kz6ee.jpg

16j54de.jpg

contact me VIA email ([email protected]) or txt/call 0419-848-600

R32 Cusco Zero 2 Coilovers

Taken from Cusco website:

The 5 stage adjustable ride height version of the ZERO-1 allows adjustment for all stages for performance and ride comfort. A stainless steel body unit.

Recommended for drivers who...

want to lower the ride height without sacrificing the stroke length.

want to enjoy various setting on road or track or weather conditions by adjusting the ride height, spring rate and pre-load setting to his heart's content.

want to try various tires from the production supplied to the S tires.

want to take the family bor girl friend along on weekdays comfortably, but wants to challenge that pass or track on weekends.

The 5 stage adjustable shock absorbers for more fun driving

Stage 1 or 2 : for everyday city use

Stage 3 or 4 : for high grip radial tires

Stage 4 or 5 : for competition tires

Condition: Great, any inspection welcome, happy to go with buyer to have them professionally checked.

location: Adelaide, postage at buyers cost

$1100 ONO

post-27843-1289219579_thumb.jpg

Hi guys I've got some items for sale i no longer need

1) L/H front vent for R32 $40

2) R32 GTR door trims $80

3) R33 drivers side dash vent $40

4) R33 centre dash vent $70

5) pair of R33 rear drive shafts (rear axels) $80

Pm or call on 0400 259 598 if interested in any items.

Cheers

Chris

post-57119-1289246097_thumb.jpg

post-57119-1289246107_thumb.jpg

post-57119-1289246119_thumb.jpg

post-57119-1289246131_thumb.jpg

post-57119-1289246174_thumb.jpg

R32 Cusco Zero 2 Coilovers

Taken from Cusco website:

The 5 stage adjustable ride height version of the ZERO-1 allows adjustment for all stages for performance and ride comfort. A stainless steel body unit.

Recommended for drivers who...

want to lower the ride height without sacrificing the stroke length.

want to enjoy various setting on road or track or weather conditions by adjusting the ride height, spring rate and pre-load setting to his heart's content.

want to try various tires from the production supplied to the S tires.

want to take the family bor girl friend along on weekdays comfortably, but wants to challenge that pass or track on weekends.

The 5 stage adjustable shock absorbers for more fun driving

Stage 1 or 2 : for everyday city use

Stage 3 or 4 : for high grip radial tires

Stage 4 or 5 : for competition tires

Condition: Great, any inspection welcome, happy to go with buyer to have them professionally checked.

location: Adelaide, postage at buyers cost

$1100 ONO

post-27843-1289219579_thumb.jpg

Sorry for the confusion, they came out of a R32 GTS-T

Items:

Samsung 2233SW LCD monitor

Item Condition:

Very Good its a LCD monitor not a footy

Extra Info:

Will be ready for pickup or drop off next week

Contact Details:

txt or PM

0421932750

Price and price conditions:

$150 ono

IMAGE

Samsung 21.5" 2233SW+ Widescreen LCD Monitor - High Gloss Black, Full HD 1920 x 1080p, DVI, 5ms Response, 50,000:1 Contrast (DCR)

SOLD

Microtech LT 12 ecu to suit R32 - $450

IMG_0672.jpg

Spitfire coilpacks to suit R32 - $400

IMG_0661.jpg

Greddy intercooler piping to suit R32 (has small dent in one of the pipes)- $150

IMG_0664.jpg

IMG_0665.jpg

Momo steering wheel with boss kit to suit R32 - $180

IMG_0662.jpg

GTR horn button to suit standard R32 steering wheel - $70

IMG_0668.jpg

R32 Dash cluster fitted with indiglo dials, 148,000kms on the odometer - $180

IMG_0663.jpg

Standard R32 spoiler - $70

IMG_0666.jpg

Front mount intercooler, dented underneath - $60

IMG_0669.jpg

IMG_0670.jpg

Please PM me if your interested or have any questions, because ill forget to check up on the thread.

Cheers.

Worked Xr6. Manual. Low ks. Wanting Swaps, pref Skyline.

PriceSwap / Trade AddressSeaford Rise SA, Australia For Sale ByOwnerMakeFordModelFalconBody TypeSedanYear1997Kilometers130000TransmissionManualDrivetrainRear-wheel drive (RWD)Air ConditioningYes

El Xr6. Ported and polished head, big cam, valve springs, CAPA chip, pacemaker 4480 comp headers, full 2.5" exhaust. Awesome condition. Green in colour. Lowered profesionally. 19" FPV typhoon wheels with good tread. Doesn't sound like a typical ford. Sounds awesome, is quick. 161kw at the wheels. 5 speed manual. 130,000 original k's. Trip computer. 3" mandrel bent intake pipe with pod. I have a bigger throttle body brand new i have not yet attatched. All work done by heinrich performance and tuning. Is an awesome car. Just want something turbo's preferably skyline. Let us know what you got anyways, dont hesitate to contact on 0432 806 081, or send us a email. Looking to do something pretty soon. Cheers.

post-78284-1289299731_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...